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Routes in Two Pines Buttress

Big Deal T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Brother Without a Brain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crosstown Traffic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyspepsia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Stop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grotto, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hypoglycemia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
L. S. D. T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moderation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mouse Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mouse's Misery T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Tail T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reprieve TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schizophrenia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Eclipse T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thoroughfare T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Touch & Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vacillation T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 493 total, 7/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Mar 26, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Moderate face between the route "Dyspepsia" on the left and "Brother Without a Brain" on the right. Climb the easy lower corner of the route "Moderation" but move up and left to the top of the blocks and flake on the left. Climb off the upper most flake onto the face and follow steep slab face on edges and flakes directly to the lone pine tree at the top.

Location

Moderate face between the route "Dyspepsia" on the left and "Brother Without a Brain" on the right. Climb the easy lower corner of the route "Moderation" but move up and left to the top of the blocks and flake on the left. Climb off the upper most flake onto the face and follow steep slab face on edges and flakes directly to the lone pine tree at the top.

Protection

This is a sketchy lead for gear but does have just barely adequite pro provided you have small stoppers and ball nuts. There is finger size cam placement at you knees on the right at the starting moves off the flake. You will get a small Ballnut placement above this. Next is a small stopper in good fairly deep slot. Above that are a sketchy small TCU placement in shallow horizontal and a small shallow stopper placement. Next is a nice deep large Ballnut at the crux move and small downward placed TCU behind a shallow flake to finish off the hard stuff. Great sketchy lead for the adventurous.

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
Maybe R+ or should it be R-. Aug 25, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.7 X
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.7 X
Seems like one of those If the gear holds, then it's "R" - if it doesn't, then it's "X". situations. At a minimum it's on the scarier end of "R". Aug 24, 2015
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
Agreed. It didn't seem like the route warranted an X rating though as There are a couple OK placements. You are quite high up with a lot of rope out so there would be some dynamic rope force absorption going on as well. Aug 21, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.7 X
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.7 X
I checked out the gear on this, and it's questionable at best. Aug 21, 2015
Tony Brengosz
  5.7 R
Tony Brengosz  
  5.7 R
This is the best of the routes that start in the gully. Sep 27, 2012