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Routes in Two Pines Buttress

Big Deal T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Brother Without a Brain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crosstown Traffic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyspepsia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Stop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grotto, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hypoglycemia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
L. S. D. T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moderation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mouse Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mouse's Misery T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Tail T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reprieve TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schizophrenia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Eclipse T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thoroughfare T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Touch & Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vacillation T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: DLFA
Page Views: 498 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tradiban on May 3, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Climb overhang and corner. Block on the left is off. interesting boulder problem to easy face.

Location

Left of Schizophrenia. Starts with the 5.4 route "Moderation," then instead of going up easy terrain on the right it heads straight up the face and overhanging corner.

Protection

TR, not much for a lead.

Photos

James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.11a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.11a
Surprisingly enjoyable for a squeeze job. May 29, 2015
Photo and description are correct. I make staying right of the the rope line on small holds thru the shallow left facing ramp to be 11d. Jun 23, 2013
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I totally agree. Everytime I climb this I start on the corner on the right but move left across the steep starting face then back right to the corner (sort of) after getting established above the initial overhang. Sep 28, 2012
Tony Brengosz
  5.11a
Tony Brengosz  
  5.11a
How close does this stay to the corner? I moved left through the overhang, and then slowly trended back towards the corner for the rest of the route. Sep 27, 2012