Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,402 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on May 26, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Pussy Galore's Flying Circus can be accessed by climbing up the 5.2 gully on the west side of Two Pines Buttress. Climb up under the flake, then move up using lieback moves on the right side of the flake. There are also some stemming opportunities using the flake and features to the right. Getting past the flake is probably 5.6 climbing. Once above the flake, either head to the right of the overhang (easier 5.4) and climb the crack and broken rock towards the pine tree on the edge at the top, or go to the left of the overhang and do some 5.7 moves to the top.

Protection

Take a standard rack for lead. You'll probably place up to ten pieces. Bring a couple slings to prevent rope drag

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Couldn't find a left-hand exit that went at 5.7 ... Oct 9, 2011
Tony Brengosz
  5.7
Tony Brengosz  
  5.7
I thought the left exit was probably no harder than 5.7, but it was awkward, and the tree gets in the way a bit. Sep 27, 2012
The roof is 5.7 straight on but no gear in the shattered rock. Apr 16, 2016