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Routes in Two Pines Buttress

Big Deal T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Brother Without a Brain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crosstown Traffic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyspepsia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Stop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grotto, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hypoglycemia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
L. S. D. T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moderation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mouse Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mouse's Misery T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Tail T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reprieve TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schizophrenia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Eclipse T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thoroughfare T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Touch & Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vacillation T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,332 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on May 26, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Pussy Galore's Flying Circus can be accessed by climbing up the 5.2 gully on the west side of Two Pines Buttress. Climb up under the flake, then move up using lieback moves on the right side of the flake. There are also some stemming opportunities using the flake and features to the right. Getting past the flake is probably 5.6 climbing. Once above the flake, either head to the right of the overhang (easier 5.4) and climb the crack and broken rock towards the pine tree on the edge at the top, or go to the left of the overhang and do some 5.7 moves to the top.

Protection

Take a standard rack for lead. You'll probably place up to ten pieces. Bring a couple slings to prevent rope drag

Photos

The roof is 5.7 straight on but no gear in the shattered rock. Apr 16, 2016
Tony Brengosz
  5.7
Tony Brengosz  
  5.7
I thought the left exit was probably no harder than 5.7, but it was awkward, and the tree gets in the way a bit. Sep 27, 2012
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Couldn't find a left-hand exit that went at 5.7 ... Oct 9, 2011