Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Classic Cleveland title? One more physical malady.
Page Views: 574 total · 7/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Takes the slabby crack system just right of the Pussy Galore's Flying Circus flake. There is a distinct cruxy section at about the 3/4 height where not so obvious holds must be worked just right and the feet hoisted up behind you.

Location

Slabby crack and edges just to the right of the route Pussy Galore's Flying Circus and quite left of Schizophrenia route.

Protection

Pretty good for gear of most sizes to be placed just at hand reach above solid stances.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
You should always be wary of a route named for a disease!

The key gear is small, 1/8-1/2" stoppers in shallow but solid placements. Be careful not to kick or jostle it out as you move up past it! Fortunately, gear and stances come about every body length.

If the "approach" ramp weren't half the route, this would deserve 3 stars. Mar 12, 2012