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Routes in Two Pines Buttress

Big Deal T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Brother Without a Brain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crosstown Traffic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyspepsia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Stop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grotto, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hypoglycemia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
L. S. D. T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moderation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mouse Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mouse's Misery T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Tail T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reprieve TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schizophrenia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Eclipse T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thoroughfare T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Touch & Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vacillation T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Classic Cleveland title? One more physical malady.
Page Views: 514 total, 7/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Takes the slabby crack system just right of the Pussy Galore's Flying Circus flake. There is a distinct cruxy section at about the 3/4 height where not so obvious holds must be worked just right and the feet hoisted up behind you.

Location

Slabby crack and edges just to the right of the route Pussy Galore's Flying Circus and quite left of Schizophrenia route.

Protection

Pretty good for gear of most sizes to be placed just at hand reach above solid stances.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
You should always be wary of a route named for a disease!

The key gear is small, 1/8-1/2" stoppers in shallow but solid placements. Be careful not to kick or jostle it out as you move up past it! Fortunately, gear and stances come about every body length.

If the "approach" ramp weren't half the route, this would deserve 3 stars. Mar 12, 2012