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Routes in Two Pines Buttress

Big Deal T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Brother Without a Brain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crosstown Traffic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyspepsia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Stop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grotto, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hypoglycemia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
L. S. D. T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moderation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mouse Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mouse's Misery T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Tail T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reprieve TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schizophrenia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Eclipse T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thoroughfare T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Touch & Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vacillation T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,557 total, 15/month
Shared By: Melissa Lohre on Mar 26, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Description

Climb crack with bulge 10 feet up. Two-thirds of the way up, move right to wide crack to top.

Protection

Toprope

Photos

jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
  5.7
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
  5.7
yup! Josh K and I both got nailed multiple times just hours apart. Sep 20, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.8
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.8
I saw that thing a couple weeks ago and there was no bees by it, is it buzzing now?! Sep 19, 2016
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
  5.7
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
  5.7
Like Mike said in June, their is still a hornets nest 1/2 way up the route...I learned the hard way on lead today and down climbed the route as fast as possible cussing the whole time. Sep 18, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.8
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.8
The rock is noticeably more slippery than everything else I've done on east bluff- makes it a bit more scary! Sep 13, 2016
Finish up the left face gives this great climb a sting in the tail at 10a. With super solid gear. Jun 23, 2013
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.8
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.8
lead this climb onsight...took everything i had to pull the crux move ( which i believe is only about 10 or so feet off the deck) in the dl guidebook climb rated as a 5.7 the falcon guide gave it a 7+ which i felt was def more appropriate... Sep 1, 2010
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
  5.7
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
  5.7
Or to lead, bring a set of wires, and cams to a #1 camalot. Save the .75 for the top, as you don't really need it before then. Make sure to get your hand sequence right down low and a bomber nut, otherwise into the tree for you! Up high near the topout two ways to finish, the offwith crack direct, or by using "the secret hold" (not going to tell you where if you don't already know) which makes the finish a bit easier.

One of my favorite leads at the Lake! Mar 30, 2009