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Routes in Two Pines Buttress

Big Deal T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Brother Without a Brain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crosstown Traffic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyspepsia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Stop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grotto, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hypoglycemia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
L. S. D. T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moderation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mouse Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mouse's Misery T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Tail T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reprieve TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schizophrenia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Eclipse T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thoroughfare T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Touch & Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vacillation T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Jim Erickson, 1966
Page Views: 4,824 total, 27/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 21, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Mouse's Misery is a summertime favorite that you'll usually find occupied, perhaps because it is one of the easier 10s in the park. It's also a really fun route. Start the climb on the face directly below the arching roof 40 feet up, avoiding the crack to your right. About 20 feet up, use the finger crack to ascend to a horn just to the left of the arching roof. Climb up the crack above the horn through the crux of the route.

Protection

Standard Rack
Backwards Eric
  5.10a
Backwards Eric  
  5.10a
A 0.1 camalot x4 (red) goes in great a few inches above the horn (extend with a sling to prevent the biner resting on the horn itself). Jul 9, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10a R
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10a R
Burt, you're right, 5.8 is an exaggeration. 33-year-old me is a little embarassed to look back at 27-year-old me's comments sometimes(this is one of those times). The real question is which is DL 10a - with or without the pockets? My guess is without if we're calling Congrats, Sometimes and Mammalary the benchmarks, and with if Callipigeanous and Big Deal are the benchmarks.

Regardless it's a great route on a unique wall and a fun lead or TR. Anyone who climbs 5.10 at the Lake should get on this with or without the pockets. Dec 31, 2013
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
There is a great Ballnut placement in the groove and moves between the old bolt stud and the the nice square cut jug above. Having that placement puts this climb in the PG-13 realm I believe. It's just a scary lead because you climb above the 2 good bomber pieces to be had just above the sqaure cut jug. I disagree that grabbing the side pull in the solution pocket off to the right makes this climb 5.8 only and especially when leading it. It makes it easier yes... but not 5.8. The climber still has to let go (of that right hand) and pull into the final thin moves for the exit to the jugs above. The climber smears the feet on the rock right of the crack proper as well.. it is just natural movement on the climb. May 1, 2012
I'm super psyched that you mother fuckers are out there leading the hard shit, keep it up! Jun 19, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10a PG13
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10a PG13
I'd say the .5 could be bomber if placed a little lower and not in the flaringness where I placed it last time. I fell on it before and it held and so did Tom M. This is a great route with a really great series of crux moves- be confident in your footwork! Jun 19, 2011
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10a PG13
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10a PG13
I just did this yesterday. Great route and relatively safe with the right gear beta. After the mangled bolt, I placed a bomber #1 C3 in a constriction above the jug, then from the right hand undercling I reached up high and placed a super bomb .4 C4 in the pod. This peace is basically fail safe! Then climbing through the crux and put the not so "bomber" .5 C4 in, as Andy H found out yesterday! Def a good whipski Andy! Luckily the #1 C3 held!

I think this route deserves a PG13 rating, with the right gear the only sketchy runout is from the bolt to the jug. Your still looking at a good whipper off the top but with the .4 its a safe and clean fall. Jun 19, 2011
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.10a R
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.10a R
I fell on this the first time I tried to lead it. Had a body weight only .3 BD below the roof (though I just found a bomber nut placement there too), a .4 placed from the stance which was ok, then a .5 placed above the finger lock. I fell on the .5, and it held great. Spooky, but I think at least the .5 should be bomber. May 20, 2011
Well that sucks for me. More incentive I suppose to get back there May 5, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10a PG13
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10a PG13
Andy, using the solution pocket is "off" if you're doing Mouse's Misery and "on" if you're doing Mouse Tracks. But either way, you're right, this is a fun route. I'd say get back on it and avoid the temptation to use the pocket because the moves in the crack allow for some really great footwork, body positioning and then an exciting exit move into the finger lock. May 5, 2011
Badass lead James! I have just a general question regarding on/off route. I have freakishly long arms, my wingspan is greater than my height, comes in handy. I used the upper solution pocket after the layback in like a crucifix pose, is that off route? For the record the move I'm making in the pic I posted is the only point I touched either of the solution pockets. Either way, badass, fun route. If I was off, gonna be pissed... May 5, 2011
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10a R
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10a R
Whether you call it "PG13" or "R" you don't want to fall on this one. Yeah the crux is reasonably well protected, but I wouldn't call it A1, and if you blow it there and the crux gear doesn't hold, you're going to zipper onto a rather ugly landing. Anyway, it's a fun, albeit heady, lead. Oct 8, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
It *is* a great lead!

On the other hand, Andy, I've heard someone deck from the crux (thankful I didn't have to watch). He thought his gear was great! but there he sat with blood streaming down his lacerated skull.

I often see belayers standing *way* out from the wall here (because its not level right at the base) as if they were belaying a top-rope.

As long as you don't fall, they're all rated "G". Sep 20, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10a PG13
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10a PG13
In my humble opinion I do not think this climb deserves an R rating. Going into the crux moves you can place good pieces and even during the crux you can place a BOMBER .5 C4. Perhaps the climbing leading up to the crux may seem like it cannot be protected well but there is a place for a decent sized nut and if you sling the old mangled bolt with a nut wire- sounds sketchy, but it would hold. I think this is a great lead. Sep 20, 2010
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
  5.10a
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
  5.10a
The first time I climbed this I used the pockets and would have called it an easy 10, after I found out the pockets were frowned upon I did it again thinking that made it a difficult 10a and characteristic of the lake. Aug 11, 2009
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10a R
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10a R
Dmitriy-

Any chance you used the solution pockets on the right that are a part of Mouse Tracks, and not "on" for Mouse's Misery? May 27, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10a R
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10a R
Wow Dmitriy, that's a first: a complaint about DL's soft ratings. May 27, 2009
Dmitriy Litvak
Pacifica, CA
Dmitriy Litvak   Pacifica, CA
Felt easier than Congrats. Rating is a little on a soft side. Gear is there. Even the traverse is protectable. What's the definition of R? May 27, 2009
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10a R
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10a R
I was hanging out at Two Pines this weekend (albeit briefly because of the 17-19 yr old jagoffs who were there being loud and obnoxious, thanks again pricks), and saw what I would consider to be something nearly as offensive as the teenage tools there.

Some dude spraying mightily about having been on Rubberman recently and how easy it was, even though he and his pals couldn't send it. Then this guy goes up on Mouse's Misery and uses the solution pockets of Mouse Tracks (still didn't look very smooth) and comes down and starts strutting around because in his mind he just hiked 5.10a. Turns out using those solution pockets (and yes they're oh so tempting) makes the route 5.8.

Seems to me if you're good enough to talk smack about one of the hardest routes at the Lake, you should be good enough (not to mention know enough about the place) to not use the 5.8 holds on the 5.10a. Just my opinion... Apr 24, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10a R
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10a R
From the "Climber and Hiker's Guide to Devil's Lake" (1970): "Comparable to other hard climbs at Devil's Lake, this route has mediocre protection. A mutilated bolt, bent and twisted out of shape, provides a graphic reminder to the aspirant of what might befall his body in the event of a fall."

I'd say Mouse's is a candidate for an R rating. Oct 11, 2006
Colin Erskine
Madison, WI
  5.10a
Colin Erskine   Madison, WI
  5.10a
Mmmmm Mouses... Great classic route. Must get on it. Mar 29, 2006
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
the first lead : Jim Erickson , 1966 Mar 23, 2003