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Routes in Two Pines Buttress

Big Deal T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Brother Without a Brain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crosstown Traffic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyspepsia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Stop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grotto, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hypoglycemia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
L. S. D. T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moderation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mouse Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mouse's Misery T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Tail T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reprieve TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schizophrenia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Eclipse T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thoroughfare T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Touch & Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vacillation T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: First Lead: Pete Cleveland
Page Views: 1,047 total · 7/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Sep 22, 2006
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description [Edit]

This route starts on Full Stop, but continues straight up the crack to the right of the "Ear".

Attain the "Ear" on Full Stop and work your way up to the slanting rail above it. Then get your feet as high as possible on this rail and work your way to the right (balancy). Look for the crescent shaped foothold out right (stretchy), and use it to bump your right hand up to the second "Ear" making sure to use one of the best thumb-catches anywhere. Use this side pull to surmount the mini-roof and finish as for Full Stop.

Protection [Edit]

Could be protected with small gear (yellow or blue tcu) at the crux, pretty much standard other than that.

Photos

Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.10a R
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.10a R
Pro is not so good on this. I don't recommend an onsight lead. I tried, then bailed onto Full Stop. The crux is protected by a #4 BD C4 in the elephant ear 12 feet or more below. Part-way through the crux, the only gear I could fish in (even while hanging) was a #2 brassie. Jul 30, 2011
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
I had the two smallest offset X4 cams on my rack. With those pieces the lead isn't that big of a deal. May 27, 2016

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