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Routes in Two Pines Buttress

Big Deal T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Brother Without a Brain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crosstown Traffic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyspepsia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Stop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grotto, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hypoglycemia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
L. S. D. T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moderation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mouse Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mouse's Misery T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Tail T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reprieve TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schizophrenia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Eclipse T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thoroughfare T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Touch & Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vacillation T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,228 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 21, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Reprieve is located on the south corner of Two Pines Buttress, left of Full Stop. Start about 2 feet right of the corner up the face. Find crimp holds to ascend the wall to a small ledge at the top of a bulge about 20 feet up. Continue up the face avoiding the corner to your left and Full Stop (rt 78) to your right. A very nice climb.

Protection

Top roped it.

Photos

EB
Winona
EB   Winona
Led this last week after a number of years not being on it. Fun, thin, decent gear with brass offsets and one offset cam which makes it less run out. Good route! Was one of Tom Coleman's favorites I remember... May 23, 2016
Love the knickers Rich. Must get some new socks. No comment on the footwear. Apr 16, 2016
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
I think the source for the route now called The Reprieve was something I did in 1962 we called Richard's Reprieve. The route started where The Reprieve starts but veered right to Full Stop for protection (and easier moves) before moving back left. The first ascent was done on the lead (in the days before nuts). I've posted two pictures that give some idea about where we went. May 25, 2013
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
"The path of the righteous man is beset on all sides by the inequities of the selfish and the tyranny of evil men. Blessed is he who, in the name of charity and good will, shepherds the weak through the valley of darkness, for he is truly his brother's keeper and the finder of lost children. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who would attempt to poison and destroy My brothers. And you will know My name is the Lord when I lay My vengeance upon thee." Jules.. Mar 13, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Hey my wallet says that! Mar 13, 2012
Tradiban
  5.7 R
Tradiban  
  5.7 R
The ones that say "Bad Mother Fucker" on them. Mar 13, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Which two stoppers should I bring Ninja? Mar 12, 2012
Tradiban
  5.7 R
Tradiban  
  5.7 R
Doesn't protect well, bring your lead hat and a stopper or two and that's all you need. Jun 3, 2010
asmith  
It's a fun lead. Thin, thoughtful, but fun.
It was my first lead on my first climb at the lake.
Ahh the memories Oct 22, 2007
I watched this route being lead over memorial day weekend. very small nuts for pro but pro nonetheless. Looks like a decent lead route if one is solid at the grade (at the lake)and doesn't mind a little run-out! May 28, 2003