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Routes in Two Pines Buttress

Big Deal T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Brother Without a Brain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crosstown Traffic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyspepsia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Stop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grotto, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hypoglycemia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
L. S. D. T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moderation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mouse Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mouse's Misery T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Tail T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reprieve TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schizophrenia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Eclipse T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thoroughfare T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Touch & Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vacillation T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: Cleveland? Route name sounds like his work.
Page Views: 776 total, 11/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Starts up Anemia corner then steps right at about 25ft mark and heads up through small roof and broken wall above.

Location

Starts out in Anemia corner then heads right up wall to the right of Anemia corner.

Protection

Just fine for "at your waist" pro in all sizes. Difficulty is sustained with no real crux section although the wide crack portion at mid height is problematic due to sparse foot hold options.

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
Hey Tony. Other then which way you actually take on the roof move (either left side or right side) I don't think anybody has been able to figure out which is which..... Jul 31, 2012
Tony Brengosz
  5.7+
Tony Brengosz  
  5.7+
Is this hypoglycemia or Chlorosis? The guide is a bit vague, but it seemed like Chlorosis traverses under the roof, and Hypoglycemia goes up the dihedral another 10 feet or so, then through the slight groove above the roof. Either way, I thought that traversing under the roof and going up was a great little climb, and tough for the grade. Jul 31, 2012