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Routes in 08: Two Pines Buttress

Big Deal T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Brother Without a Brain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crosstown Traffic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyspepsia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Stop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grotto, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hypoglycemia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
L. S. D. T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moderation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mouse Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mouse's Misery T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Tail T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reprieve TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schizophrenia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Eclipse T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thoroughfare T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Touch & Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vacillation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,005 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 20, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Description

The Rack can be found to the right of the obvious chimney on the east end of Two Pines Buttress. It is easily identified by looking for the right-curving overhang/crack. Start the climb by using ledges to make your way up to the crack. Jam the crack up to where it turns to the right. From here traverse right with hands in the crack and feet smearing. Once you get to the end of the crack (near the corner) mantel up to the ledge, then continue up the south-facing corner and face to the top.

Protection

Standard Rack
I chose the RACK for my New Solo Setup for its curved start which would test my rig and its nice ledges toward the top - also the last move is very interesting. Aug 25, 2002
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.7
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.7
This is a super fun route. Huge holds the whole way with great movement except for the slightly awkward mantle. Jul 9, 2009
Tradiban
  5.7 PG13
Tradiban  
  5.7 PG13
No good pro after the crack and mantle for a few moves. Gets a little exposed (For DL) there too! Jun 3, 2010
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
 
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
 
the beginning of the route is the best...after the first 20' the route more or less becomes an adventure climb to top... good lead...slung a tree for pro Sep 1, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Easy to walk past this one, but it's a great lead. Apr 18, 2014
No pro as you step out left and climb the corner blocks from the middle platform above the curving crack. Great head game climb on lead. Cheers May 22, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.6 PG13
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.6 PG13
The Rack doesn't get the attention it deserves, I've been just as guilty as anyone, but I'm going to try to fix that situation in the future. Aug 14, 2017

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