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| Elevation: | 961 ft |
| GPS: | 43.417, -89.732 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 890,950 total · 4,228/month |
| Admins: | Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE |
Description
Devil's Lake is a state park in Wisconsin that contains some of the best rock climbing in the Midwest. Located in a picturesque setting, these quartzite rock cliffs of upwards of a hundred feet in height attract climbers from all over the country. Over 1600 routes are listed in the most recent guidebook. There is no shortage of climbable rock in the park.
Famous climbers such as Joe and Paul Stettner, John Gill, Jim Erickson, and Eric Zschieschie have left their mark here. The legendary Pete Cleveland may have introduced 5.12 back in the 1960s. Son of Great Chimney, led onsight, may have been the hardest route in the country at the time of Cleveland's first ascent in 1968.
Devil's Lake offers mellow toproping, well protected leads, and some harder "headpoint" style leads. Bouldering is extensive, if a bit spread out. Those who intend to toprope here should remember to bring plenty of sling materials as some of the anchors wind up being a good ways back from the cliff edges. Oddly, some climbs are "occupied" for extended stretches during the day, but climbers are often willing to share the rock here with a friendly request. Remember: lead climbers always have the right of way.
The quartzite rock is beautiful, but it can be slick. Smearing is much less utilized than edging. Climbing here is traditional. There are no bolted routes at the Lake, so sport climbers may be dissatisfied here. Devil's Lake may have more quality moderate climbs (5.5-5.8) than anywhere in the country. There are also many well protected 5.9-5.11a leads. More difficult climbs are usually attempted on toprope and are led if and when they are wired. The harder climbs tend to be technical and the sequences tend to be cryptic. Maybe it's the smooth nature of the rock, but more than one climber has referred to Devil's Lake ratings as stiff.
There is a beautiful lake here with fishing, non-motorized boating, and even diving for the multi-day visitor for non-climbing days.
Dave Groth on "The Good The Bad and the Jacked"
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Dave Groth on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. 1985. Photo: Dave Langhoff.
Andy Hansen on Lost Face Overhangs:
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Great route. Photo: Peter Beck.
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A great film about the history of the DLFA by Darin Limvere, available for download on Vimeo:
vimeo.com/ondemand/24156/65…
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Famous climbers such as Joe and Paul Stettner, John Gill, Jim Erickson, and Eric Zschieschie have left their mark here. The legendary Pete Cleveland may have introduced 5.12 back in the 1960s. Son of Great Chimney, led onsight, may have been the hardest route in the country at the time of Cleveland's first ascent in 1968.
Devil's Lake offers mellow toproping, well protected leads, and some harder "headpoint" style leads. Bouldering is extensive, if a bit spread out. Those who intend to toprope here should remember to bring plenty of sling materials as some of the anchors wind up being a good ways back from the cliff edges. Oddly, some climbs are "occupied" for extended stretches during the day, but climbers are often willing to share the rock here with a friendly request. Remember: lead climbers always have the right of way.
The quartzite rock is beautiful, but it can be slick. Smearing is much less utilized than edging. Climbing here is traditional. There are no bolted routes at the Lake, so sport climbers may be dissatisfied here. Devil's Lake may have more quality moderate climbs (5.5-5.8) than anywhere in the country. There are also many well protected 5.9-5.11a leads. More difficult climbs are usually attempted on toprope and are led if and when they are wired. The harder climbs tend to be technical and the sequences tend to be cryptic. Maybe it's the smooth nature of the rock, but more than one climber has referred to Devil's Lake ratings as stiff.
There is a beautiful lake here with fishing, non-motorized boating, and even diving for the multi-day visitor for non-climbing days.
Dave Groth on "The Good The Bad and the Jacked"
Andy Hansen on Lost Face Overhangs:
--------------------------------------------------------------------
A great film about the history of the DLFA by Darin Limvere, available for download on Vimeo:
vimeo.com/ondemand/24156/65…
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Bouldering
Devil's Lake has great bouldering. From the long established problems at Tombstone Rocks, to the neo-classics at the Reserve, there are many worthwhile areas. See Devil's Lake bouldering for more info on the wealth of problems that the Lake offers.
Organization
There are multiple cliffs in the area. These include the East Bluff, the West Bluff, the South Bluff, and the Sandstone Bluff. The greatest number of routes will be found on the East Bluff and West Bluff areas.
The East Rampart, a quarter-mile long cliff band, is the most popular climbing area and contains the highest concentration of climbs at the park. The area contains some of the finest climbs and longer climbs in this area. It tends to also be the most crowded.
The East Rampart, a quarter-mile long cliff band, is the most popular climbing area and contains the highest concentration of climbs at the park. The area contains some of the finest climbs and longer climbs in this area. It tends to also be the most crowded.
Location/Directions
Devil's Lake State Park is located NNW of Madison and just S of Baraboo. From the North, you can access it off I-90/I-94 to US 12 and head east following the signs. From the South, you can access it from I-90 to US 12/US 18 which skirts Madison on its southern edge, following this to US 12. From the East, you can access it from I-94 to I-90 S to US 12. From US 12, follow the signs into the park.
A vehicle admission fee is required in the park. You can get a day pass at the self-serve kiosks in most parking lots.
A vehicle admission fee is required in the park. You can get a day pass at the self-serve kiosks in most parking lots.
Guidebooks
The most comprehensive guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison now carries the guidebook as well.
Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.
A new DL route guidebook by MP's own Jay Knower is now available for sale locally (Wildside in Baraboo, Boulders in Madison). Order here: wolverinepublishing.com/sto…
A bouldering guidebook by Peter Bonamici and others for Minnesota and Wisconsin available here: escapeclimbing.com/extra/mn… (and also at AdRock, Boulders, and Wildside in Barbaoo)
A bouldering guidebook by Ian Cotter-Brown to Devil's Lake is available here: (also at Boulders, Wild Side, and the park admin building) kdanielspublishing.com/cart…
Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.
A new DL route guidebook by MP's own Jay Knower is now available for sale locally (Wildside in Baraboo, Boulders in Madison). Order here: wolverinepublishing.com/sto…
A bouldering guidebook by Peter Bonamici and others for Minnesota and Wisconsin available here: escapeclimbing.com/extra/mn… (and also at AdRock, Boulders, and Wildside in Barbaoo)
A bouldering guidebook by Ian Cotter-Brown to Devil's Lake is available here: (also at Boulders, Wild Side, and the park admin building) kdanielspublishing.com/cart…
Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Lake
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
17 Comments
More About Devil's Lake
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Guidebooks (7)
Madison, WI
Shiprock is on highway 21 and is nothing more then a wayside/picnic area so having a large dog along(as long as he stays near you) will not be an issue in the least little bit. I am sure many motorists stop and use the place to water and walk a dog.
There are some top anchors to be found at the very center of the main summit block that are great for rapping off with (the rope pull is just fine). You can use this rap anchor to TR a few routes in close proximity to the anchor on both sides of the formation but other routes not close by will require lots of sling to adequately anchor (at least for a normal sling shot type of TR anchor).
There are a couple of bolted routes on the formation but mostly just Trad routes.
Not a lot of options for climbing in Adams county if you are talking about free access to climbing on public lands... There is a ton of rock (a lot of it crappy SS with small areas of OK rock in between - but also a couple of choice areas as well) that is on private land and good luck getting permission from the sorts that live up in the area..... Aug 28, 2006
Madison, Beersconsin
Also some cool aerial pics of the geology towards the bottom of this page. Sep 17, 2008
"Remember that all the climbs except a very few have been lead...and that top-roping is not considered the legitimate form of climbing at the Lake. The easy access by trail to the top of the bluffs and short climbs is an excuse for practice, but not for competence"
"Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake" by David Smith and Roger Zimmerman, Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers, 1970. May 21, 2009
Madison, WI
I think it just goes to show you that the people committed to lead climbing at the Lake have always been a small minority (40 years!) ... and thank you so much, Kris, for generating new/renewed enthusiasm for leading around here. May 21, 2009
Madison, WI
Madison, WI
A few rescues made in the park this busy weekend past. The number of casual users (swimmers/hikers/fishers/picnickers) far out weighed the number of climbers in the park this past weekend from what I saw. Not unusual by any means but helps explain the mis-haps in the boulderfields.... Jul 6, 2010
Madison, Beersconsin
vimeo.com/ondemand/24156/65… Jun 28, 2012
Madison, WI
www.grassroutesclimbing.com/
Posted by Joel Unema originally. Aug 12, 2013
On a related note, I'd pay someone who lives in the area $10 (or some hometown Jack Daniels) just to camp in their yard. Jun 28, 2016
Madison, Beersconsin
wolverinepublishing.com/sto… May 18, 2017
Madison, Beersconsin
Or, camp outside the park at one of several campgrounds in the area. Mar 27, 2018