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Areas in Devil's Lake

Devil's Lake Bouldering 15 / 0 / 14 / 994 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1010
East Bluff 01 - Sandstone Area 33 / 0 / 25 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 41
East Bluff 02 - East of the Quarry 46 / 0 / 51 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 58
East Bluff 03 - West of the Quarry 48 / 0 / 62 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 68
East Bluff 04 - East Rampart 204 / 0 / 215 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 272
East Bluff 05 - Potholes Area 100 / 0 / 99 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 116
East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock 41 / 0 / 43 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 54
East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tracks 62 / 0 / 69 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 82
East Bluff 08 - North End 20 / 0 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Forbidden Rocks 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Ice Age Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Linkups, Contrivances, Oddities and Triflings 13 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
South Bluff 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater 45 / 0 / 41 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 54
West Bluff - Great Tower (Mid-bluff) 25 / 0 / 19 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
West Bluff - Lincoln's Chair 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
West Bluff - Misery/Cottage Rocks 52 / 0 / 56 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 66
West Bluff - North Woods 18 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
West Bluff - Stettner Rocks 11 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
West Bluff - West Rampart 82 / 0 / 78 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 97

Description

Devil's Lake is a state park in Wisconsin that contains some of the best rock climbing in the Midwest. Located in a picturesque setting, these quartzite rock cliffs of upwards of a hundred feet in height attract climbers from all over the country. Over 1600 routes are listed in the most recent guidebook. There is no shortage of climbable rock in the park.

Famous climbers such as Joe and Paul Stettner, John Gill, Jim Erickson, and Eric Zschieschie have left their mark here. The legendary Pete Cleveland may have introduced 5.12 back in the 1960s. Son of Great Chimney, led onsight, may have been the hardest route in the country at the time of Cleveland's first ascent in 1968.

Devil's Lake offers mellow toproping, well protected leads, and some harder "headpoint" style leads. Bouldering is extensive, if a bit spread out. Those who intend to toprope here should remember to bring plenty of sling materials as some of the anchors wind up being a good ways back from the cliff edges. Oddly, some climbs are "occupied" for extended stretches during the day, but climbers are often willing to share the rock here with a friendly request. Remember: lead climbers always have the right of way.

The quartzite rock is beautiful, but it can be slick. Smearing is much less utilized than edging. Climbing here is traditional. There are no bolted routes at the Lake, so sport climbers may be dissatisfied here. Devil's Lake may have more quality moderate climbs (5.5-5.8) than anywhere in the country. There are also many well protected 5.9-5.11a leads. More difficult climbs are usually attempted on toprope and are led if and when they are wired. The harder climbs tend to be technical and the sequences tend to be cryptic. Maybe it's the smooth nature of the rock, but more than one climber has referred to Devil's Lake ratings as stiff.

There is a beautiful lake here with fishing, non-motorized boating, and even diving for the multi-day visitor for non-climbing days.


Dave Groth on "The Good The Bad and the Jacked"




Andy Hansen on Lost Face Overhangs:



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A great film about the history of the DLFA by Darin Limvere, available for download on Vimeo:

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/24156/65395216

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Bouldering

Devil's Lake has great bouldering. From the long established problems at Tombstone Rocks, to the neo-classics at the Reserve, there are many worthwhile areas. See Devil's Lake bouldering for more info on the wealth of problems that the Lake offers.

Organization

There are multiple cliffs in the area. These include the East Bluff, the West Bluff, the South Bluff, and the Sandstone Bluff. The greatest number of routes will be found on the East Bluff and West Bluff areas.

The East Rampart, a quarter-mile long cliff band, is the most popular climbing area and contains the highest concentration of climbs at the park. The area contains some of the finest climbs and longer climbs in this area. It tends to also be the most crowded.

Location/Directions

Devil's Lake State Park is located NNW of Madison and just S of Baraboo. From the North, you can access it off I-90/I-94 to US 12 and head east following the signs. From the South, you can access it from I-90 to US 12/US 18 which skirts Madison on its southern edge, following this to US 12. From the East, you can access it from I-94 to I-90 S to US 12. From US 12, follow the signs into the park.

A vehicle admission fee is required in the park. You can get a day pass at the self-serve kiosks in most parking lots.

Guidebooks

The most comprehensive guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison now carries the guidebook as well.

Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.

A new DL route guidebook by MP's own Jay Knower is now available for sale locally (Wildside in Baraboo, Boulders in Madison). Order here: https://www.wolverinepublishing.com/store/devils-lake-climbing/

A bouldering guidebook by Peter Bonamici and others for Minnesota and Wisconsin available here: http://www.escapeclimbing.com/extra/mn-wi-bouldering-guidebook-2017-edition/ (and also at AdRock, Boulders, and Wildside in Barbaoo)

A bouldering guidebook by Ian Cotter-Brown to Devil's Lake is available here: (also at Boulders, Wild Side, and the park admin building) https://kdanielspublishing.com/cart/index.php/guide-books/devils-lake-bouldering-61.html

Accomodations

There is nearby accomodations available in Baraboo, just to the North. Camping is available in or near the state park, but it can be quite popular.

2,028 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Lake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Queen's Throne
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Comfort Route
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peter's Project
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curving Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watermarks
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch Tree Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orgasm
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Diagonal
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Chicago
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Congratulations
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sometime Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Misery
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheatah
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughfare
Trad, TR
Queen's Throne W Bluff - Cleo Am… > Cleo Amphitheater 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
East Comfort Route W Bluff - Cleo Am… > Cleopatra's Needle 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Brinton's Crack E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Brinton's Buttress 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Peter's Project E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Many Pines Buttress 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Curving Crack E Bluff 01 - Sand… > 1.1 - Old Sandstone 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Watermarks E Bluff 06 - Bala… > 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Birch Tree Crack E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Pedestal Buttress 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Orgasm E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Rainy Wednesday Tower 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Upper Diagonal E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Pedestal Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Chicago E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Brinton's Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
Congratulations E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Pedestal Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Sometime Crack E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Pedestal Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Mouse's Misery E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Two Pines Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Cheatah E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Bill's Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Thoroughfare E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Two Pines Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Lake »

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Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
best rope climbing guidebook:

wolverinepublishing.com/sto… May 18, 2017
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
The wasps are out. Aug 29, 2017
Lost Top Rope Anchor over Pedestal Buttress

Over the 4th of July I accidentally left my top rope gear on a 5.2 route I set up for my kids. Went back on Saturday to find it gone. #4, #3 camolt, #2 friend, green webolet, black and red 2' sling, 2 auto locking binners. If anyone has any ideas on where it might be that would be most appreciated! Jul 8, 2017
Hi all! I'd like to bring my 8 year old daughter climbing at Devil's Lake. I've noticed that many of the "easy" 5.5 and 5.6 top rope routes in the Knower guidebook are more difficult than this rating, even for tall adults. Does anyone know of a couple good top rope routes I can set up for SUPER EASY climbing? I'm not looking for climbing on large rocks, but simply a wall face with many solid holds. There's gotta be something! Thanks!
-Greg Wheaton May 27, 2017
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
Looking for climbing partners for DL (trad or boulder) for June 18 and/or 19

Alternatively, what's the best (roped climbing)guidebook for the area? May 18, 2017
John. Contact Wildside store in Baraboo, there's a cheap "climbers" camp ground on Hwy 12 nearby, I can't recall the name. Jun 29, 2016
Are there any good places to camp nearby that aren't $25 a night? That's ridiculously expensive from where I come from (TN).

On a related note, I'd pay someone who lives in the area $10 (or some hometown Jack Daniels) just to camp in their yard. Jun 28, 2016
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Burt, thanks for adding Jim Erickson to the list. He was someone we looked up to. Not so much for his ascents at the Lake ,but as some one who took their DL skills and applied them to Eldo and Yosemite. First free Ascent of the Naked Edge with Duncan Ferguson and first free ascent of Regular NW face of Half Dome with Art Higbee He is still quite the character and still climbs.....although he will deny it ifna ya quiz him. Peace Steve S. Sep 8, 2015
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I added well known Colorado climber Jim Erickson to the list of notables who had a hand in early contributions to Devil's Lake. There are many routes free climbed first by Jim Erickson at Devil's Lake back in the 70's. Plus..... Jim Erickson sights Devil's Lake as one of the first places he utilized his early and innovative version of the "quick draw". Sep 8, 2015
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Sure thing Steve. I watch the comments. If there are more complicated things please feel free to email. Sep 4, 2015
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Thanks to whoever took care of my "editing" request. Greatly appreciate the striving for historical accuracy. Peace Steve S. Sep 4, 2015
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Great and interesting article\interview featuring JJ Schlick - one of Wisconsin's own living and climbing very actively in Arizona...

www.grassroutesclimbing.com/

Posted by Joel Unema originally. Aug 12, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Hey DL climbers! Darin Limvere has now completed an awesome film about the history of the DLFA. The trailer is linked below. The entire film is available for download for a paltry sum of $7. Get on it!

vimeo.com/ondemand/24156/65… Jun 28, 2012
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
Eoro46, there isn't really a guide for bouldering, the best guidebook for Devil's Lake is Swartling's Guide to Devil's Lake. It is in its third printing now, I personally like the second edition better if you can find it.

Eric Z. did a bouldering guide to Devil's Lake that is alright, there is a link to some copiedish topos on the Devil's Lake bouldering page.
There is no guidebook for the rest of Wisconsin, unless you count the Falcon guide Rock Climbing Minnesota and Wisconsin, but that book is pretty brief for my tastes.

I've never heard of a GDSP guidebook, been there a couple times and haven't really felt a need for anything more than the topos in the areas uploaded by Chris treggE. It would be nice to have one, but I haven't heard of one.

Westby and Central Sandstone are pretty good areas to just play around and find stuff. I've never run into a party there, I would be amazed if there was a guidebook. Print out mountain project and go apeshit. Hillbilly Hollow also has some interesting stuff to boulder, but its not on here. Hit me up for more beta on that area. Feb 22, 2012
Eero46  
What is a good guide book that covers top roping, but more importantly bouldering throughout the whole state of Wisconsin?

I am really interested in the areas Devil's Lake, Governors State Park, Westby, and the central sandstone boulders. Feb 22, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Well I for one would love to see a well done guide for the area. Especially one with a good history section. The older I get, the more I wish I had time to collect all the old stories I heard at the crags and campfires in my formative years in Wisconsin. Before the fuckness. Hell, I've already forgotton most them, and Groth's are some of the best I have ever heard. Anyway, kudos for even thinking about taking on such a challenge, but it seems like you guys have quite a pool of talent to pull from. I'm sure it would be a labor of love, but that's one the best kinds. Would be psyched to help in anyway. Feb 8, 2012
Juggler  
To All Chicago Area Climbers:

I am looking for partners to go to WI climbing and other locations(Jackson Falls, DL, The Red, Grand Dads, etc) with.

I have an Airplane and can fly us there. Please send me a PM if you want more details and the cost of sharing the flight expenses. Hope to meet a few of you soon. I can fit up to 4 climbers with me in the Cherokee 6(with room for gear). I also have lodging available in a log cabin in the area :) May 31, 2011
Another epic journey took me by those bluffs we all see from 113 near Merry Mac's (choss), around the south side of the bluff (choked by thorn bushes), past the end of Halweg Rd (hidden talus field with no big enough boulders), past Burma Rd and through the gorge there, then north through the woods (nuthin'), back to Ski Hi Rd, and straight through the woods to the Fire Road Boulder (some un-done or forgotten lines), up the east bluff (boulders straight back from Chicago about 100 yards), down the Ice Age Trail, though the woods across the sandstone areas (nothing up top, some stuff around New Standstone), and back to the Jeep at the trail head. This means I'm 99% sure there is no climbable rock not posted currently on MP.

But who knows, I didn't see it all...Happy Hunting! May 13, 2011
Check out the March 2011 issue of Climbing Magazine for "Lake Effect" by local Jay Knower! Feb 13, 2011
Just doing the ones Alex hasn't done would be quite the accomplishment, never mind the other 1584 routes! I might be able to close in if I stay in WI ;) Jan 1, 2011
What Nick is eluding too, these are the 16 routes that have I have not climbed of the 1600 routes, my to do list, not going to Happen,
I think I'm safe from bitch duty, for awhile, a few of the routes have only 1 ascent, plus need to come to Colorado, to Collect,
good luck on doing them all, you need it, Dec 29, 2010
If you can do all of the following routes (Just on TR) you can then claim Alex A is your bitch. Start your engines!

Lead them and I will be your bitch, sponge-bath included ;)

"Ice, Rubberman, Shaking Hands With The Chimp, The Zipper, Dyslexia, Zschiesche Roof, Modern Art, and Steaksauce, Assume the Position, AAA, Between the cheeks, Phlogiston, Mental Block, and a few odd ball 5.3's 5.4's" Sep 20, 2010
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
wiscnews.com/baraboonewsrep…

A few rescues made in the park this busy weekend past. The number of casual users (swimmers/hikers/fishers/picnickers) far out weighed the number of climbers in the park this past weekend from what I saw. Not unusual by any means but helps explain the mis-haps in the boulderfields.... Jul 6, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
We were at Balanced Rock on Sunday and heard 2 loud sounds that were more like explosives than anything, but very distant. I grew up going to a lake place near Fort Ripley in MN and it sounded like similar munitions. According to Wikipedia, which clearly is the current world knowledge base and exceedingly accurate, it's probable that it came from there. Aug 25, 2009
This is true Jay, but they are in the process of dismantling the whole thing along with destroying decaying bombs and structures. Hence, our "rock fall".
Can anyone confirm my claims? I've heard these sounds for many years and from my research I figured it was coming from Badger. Aug 25, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I think that the Badger Ammunition Plant has been out of commission since the Cold War. Aug 25, 2009
Garrett Soper
Duluth, Minnesota
Garrett Soper   Duluth, Minnesota
Ha, oh thats hilarious. That makes sense. Aug 20, 2009
HAHA! Super funny guys! I know what you're talking about now. I encourage you to Google "Badger Ammunition Plant" for beta on those bomb sounds.
Classic! Aug 18, 2009
Garrett Soper
Duluth, Minnesota
Garrett Soper   Duluth, Minnesota
I have to agree with John. I don't think the noise I heard was the smaller rock fall. I heard it from the south too, and I agree that it sounded like a bomb went off. It was nothing like anything I've ever heard before. Aug 18, 2009
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Steve, I too have heard smaller sounds like that and doubted they were rockfall, and probably the gravel dumping as you say. I don't think this was the dumping of gravel. It sounded like a bomb went off and then rock tumbling/rumbling down the talus. The noise came from the South, or around the corner of the east, but not the West. Aug 18, 2009
We've been bouldering up on the west bluff a couple times this year and have heard it. As far as I can tell it's just people dumping fresh gravel/stones for the cottages. Each time we've come down there have been new rock driveways in. The stuff is about baseball sized so it can make a pretty big noise. Aug 18, 2009
Garrett Soper
Duluth, Minnesota
Garrett Soper   Duluth, Minnesota
Yeah, I too heard that rockfall. We weren't even sure what it was, but it was a pretty terrifying noise. Aug 17, 2009
John:
Reagarding the rock slide you heard. I recall years ago my geology prof. saying how rare it was that people have witnessed significant "natural" rock slides or rock avalanches at Devils Lake.
He cited the angle of repose of the talus slopes and how tight the quartzite blocks are.
So if indeed a rock slide occured it was an exceptional event. I will be curious to hear more about this. Aug 17, 2009
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
I was at Doorway Rocks on Saturday with Paul Campbell and Ed Wright. We heard the biggest rockfall I have ever heard at the lake. It sounded like it came from somewhere near the South Bluff. It was like the loudest thunder when it started, then you could hear the avalanche of rock it must have created as it tumbled down the talus. Pretty nerve racking to hear that at the lake. Did anyone else hear it? Aug 17, 2009
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Twenty feet? Must have been a lead fall? Not a good place to hit the ground ....

The media (and everyone, really) often has a problem hearing "not a designated-use area" (note the hyphen). The WDNR manages areas that have designated uses, like trails and campgrounds, and also areas that have no designated use. The distinction if VERY important, because under State liability law, the WDNR must maintain areas which have designated uses so that they are safe for those uses. They have to clear brush off the trails; they have to remove dead limbs from the trees hanging over the campsites. All of the cliffs are areas that have no designated use, so the WDNR does not need to make them safe. In DNR-speak, these are "non-designated-use areas," which to the untrained ear sounds like someplace you are not supposed to be. Just like hunting areas (also generally "non-designated-use" areas), you are welcome to go there, but at your own risk. Jun 15, 2009
The reason they said that is because no part of devils lake is "designated" for climbing. The park doesn't actively recognize it as an activity.

I was a little caught off guard at first by the comment but then I remembered having a conversation with a ranger about it. Funny. Jun 15, 2009
Hmmm..."The man...was climbing in an area not designated for that activity."
That's right boys, they wash their hands clean of us, and they should! The LAST thing we want is bureaucratic control. Keep that in mind. Jun 15, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Check this out for a little more info on the accident.
wiscnews.com/bnr/news/454871 Jun 15, 2009
Really hope they are alright. There is an emergency phone over above Balanced Rock, for reference. Jun 15, 2009
Accident/Fall as reported by "Baraboo News Republic":

wiscnews.com/bnr/news/454871 Jun 15, 2009
A climber (A real one) decked today on Birch Tree, possible spinal injury :(
Any info on what happened? I heard a piece blew. How was the response time? Vince said his partner had to run down the trail for help. Is there an E Phone up there like on the West Bluff? Jun 14, 2009
Kris Gorny    
Doug, I stand corrected :) Thanks for the last remark although we were inspired by conversations with Dave Groth, ascents of Jason Huston, and videos of Dave Macleod. So the credit goes to these guys. May 21, 2009
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I think you mean "style" (or lack of style), not "ethics."

I think it just goes to show you that the people committed to lead climbing at the Lake have always been a small minority (40 years!) ... and thank you so much, Kris, for generating new/renewed enthusiasm for leading around here. May 21, 2009
Kris Gorny    
An interesting quote regarding climbing ethics at Devils Lake. Here's the exact paragraph (emphases by the authors):

"Remember that all the climbs except a very few have been lead...and that top-roping is not considered the legitimate form of climbing at the Lake. The easy access by trail to the top of the bluffs and short climbs is an excuse for practice, but not for competence"

"Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake" by David Smith and Roger Zimmerman, Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers, 1970. May 21, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
This is kind of a cool reference about the geology of Devil's Lake

Also some cool aerial pics of the geology towards the bottom of this page. Sep 17, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
LOL. Thomas, your comment is hilarious. You must have been up on the East Rampart. That place is a zoo on the weekends. There are so many places at the lake that no one goes to and you can be alone all day. Looks like you need to do some more research before you head up to DL again. Check out the Sandstone area and the west bluff. Also, the falling rocks are due to stupid hikers throwing them off the cliff-side not thinking that anyone is down there. I yell up at them all the time "Hey there are people down here, stop throwing rocks" then if they don't stop, I say "Stop throwing fuckin rocks!!! There are people down here you idiots!!!" That usually stops them right away. Aug 21, 2008
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
I would say there are plenty of tucked away places to get away from the crowds at DL. I was out last Saturday and Sunday, and probably only saw a half dozen other climbers.

That said a sunny summer weekend at the East Rampart is a veritable zoo. Aug 20, 2008
This would be a great place to climb if it was not so crowded. Everyone and their brother seem like they are out at Devils Lake climbing. I would say that you shouldn't waste your time going, but then the other fun spots to climb would get crowded and ruin my climbing. But just thought I would put it out there for people to know. I had some friends from out of state go there and did not warn them about the crowds. They left totally pissed off, calling it an amusement park for climbing.

(Also beware of falling rocks! You have idiots causing rock or rocks to fall and never yell to warn anyone. Another reason I don't climb there anymore!) Aug 19, 2008
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
I've never climbed in a gym. I'm not against them, it's just not convenient for me to drive to Madison from Portage when I can go to the Lake. But lately what on earth is going on in the climbing community? Lake has been way too crowded with yahoos on weekends ever since the late 80s, but on a recent Fri. afternoon top-ropers were knocking off huge rocks above me and never said a word. I was on belay for starting Jungle Jim and my partner was leading it. The buddy of the guy, who was dislodging everything on his way to the base of a climb, was setting up their top-rope anchor and said, not shouted, "Coming down" before throwing the rope. Where do these people learn to climb? Whatever happened to learning basic climbing commands and yelling, "Rock!" when you dislodge something that could take somebody's head off. No wonder accidents are occurring more frequently at the Lake. Yes, I know that probably 99% of the people hurt are scrambling hikers, etc., but the top-rope anchors and behavior I've seen over the past few years at the Lake scare the hell out of me. Jul 30, 2007
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
To Robert:

Shiprock is on highway 21 and is nothing more then a wayside/picnic area so having a large dog along(as long as he stays near you) will not be an issue in the least little bit. I am sure many motorists stop and use the place to water and walk a dog.

There are some top anchors to be found at the very center of the main summit block that are great for rapping off with (the rope pull is just fine). You can use this rap anchor to TR a few routes in close proximity to the anchor on both sides of the formation but other routes not close by will require lots of sling to adequately anchor (at least for a normal sling shot type of TR anchor).

There are a couple of bolted routes on the formation but mostly just Trad routes.

Not a lot of options for climbing in Adams county if you are talking about free access to climbing on public lands... There is a ton of rock (a lot of it crappy SS with small areas of OK rock in between - but also a couple of choice areas as well) that is on private land and good luck getting permission from the sorts that live up in the area..... Aug 28, 2006
Any climbing in Adam's County? Any info on Ship Rock? Bolts on top? Large worthless dogs like my girlfriend's Newf allowed? Aug 26, 2006

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