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Elevation: 1,252 ft
GPS: 43.4125, -89.7045
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 76,067 total · 377/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

Description Suggest change

Just minutes from the East Rampart and the CCC parking lot are about a dozen smaller rocks hidden in the woods. They remain pleasantly obscure because they are mostly short (about the height of D'Arcy's Wall or the Guillotine) and there are no trails. The best known route out here is perhaps "American Dream Roof," one of the more dramatic roofs at the Lake.

Getting There Suggest change

There are three ways to approach this area.

a) Hike up the CCC, back to the East Bluff Woods trail and head east. Go past the low point in the trail and up another 1/4 mile or so. Depending on the season, you may find faint use-trails heading south to (west to east) American Dream, Vulture Lookout, February Wall, or September Wall. If you are headed to these upper level rocks, this is the easiest approach, but you should probably scout it from below the first time you go.

b) Hike up a fairly well-worn user trail that begins opposite (north of) the Group Camp exit. Where the trail is lost going across rocky areas, low on the hillside, head left and up. Once the steeper hillside gives way to a more gentle slope above, leave the trail heading east. Stay above any boulder fields, and you will pass West Post and arrive at Birdfoot Buttress (the American Dream area).

c) The easiest way to find things if you are new to this part of the Lake. Park at the CCC lot, but hike toward the Quarry. Before you get to the Quarry road, head left (north) into the woods. Head more or less straight up for West Ridge (Lost Temple, Red Nose Wall, etc). Head up and left for the West Terraces (Hidden Buttress, Poison Ivy Wall, Bird-foot Buttress, etc.).

136 Total Climbs

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Location: East Bluff 03 - West of the Quarry Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff 03 - West of the Quarry

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 21
Lost Temple Corner
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Ramses II
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Missing Piece
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Ramses I
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Bloodshed
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Squeeze Play
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Double Jeopardy Cracks
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 9
The Energizer
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 14
Mother and Apple Pie
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Duracell
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 8
Purple Stripe
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 8
Face Value
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 24
American Dream Roof
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
The V (aka The Vulva)
Trad, TR
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Magic Mushroom
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lost Temple Corner Lost Temple
 21
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Ramses II Poison Ivy Wall
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Missing Piece Vulture Lookout
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Ramses I Poison Ivy Wall
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Bloodshed Red Nose Wall
 8
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Squeeze Play Bird-Foot Buttress
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Double Jeopardy Cracks Vulture Lookout
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Energizer Vulture Lookout
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
Mother and Apple Pie Bird-Foot Buttress
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Duracell Vulture Lookout
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Purple Stripe White Wall
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Face Value Bird-Foot Buttress
 8
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad, TR
American Dream Roof Bird-Foot Buttress
 24
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
The V (aka The Vulva) Vulture Lookout
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Magic Mushroom Vulture Lookout
 6
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b TR
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