Elevation: 1,216 ft
GPS: 43.414, -89.725 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 43,469 total · 194/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 16, 2002
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

Description

The far west end of the East Bluff contains the very popular Balanced Rock Wall, along with the more obscure Balanced Rock Ridge, Liederkranz, Hole-In-The-Wall, The Slab, and The Effie. The area is easily surveyed from the South Shore parking lot. The Balanced Rock Wall contains what many say is the classic climb at the Lake, Watermarks (5.8). Above the Balanced Rock Wall is the Balanced Rock Ridge, a seldom-visited ridge containing a series of short scrambling pitches. To the immediate east of the Balanced Rock Wall are Liederkranz and Hole-In-The-Wall, two smaller areas with interesting climbs. There are also two formations, The Slab and The Effie, at the top of the talus field midway between the Balanced Rock Wall and Devil's Doorway. These rocks contain a handful of shorter climbs.

Getting There

To get to the East Bluff - Far West End, park at the South Shore parking lot and follow the paved walkway to the railroad tracks. Just past the railroad tracks you will find the junction of two trails. To the left is the Balanced Rock Trail, to the right is the Grottos Trail. To get to the Balanced Rock Wall, Balanced Rock Ridge, Liederkranz and Hole-In-The-Wall turn left and hike up the rock steps of the Balanced Rock Trail. About halfway up the bluff you will encounter the Balanced Rock Wall (can't miss it!). Top-Rope access can be gained by going around the northwest end of the wall. The Liederkranz can be accessed by walking around the east end of the Balanced Rock Wall and up the gully about 100 ft. To get to the Hole-In-The-Wall continue 200 ft east past the Liederkranz and slightly up the bluff. Finally, The Slab and The Effie can be found by taking the Grottos Trail to the right just after passing over the railroad tracks at the bottom of the bluff. Walk east on this scenic trail until you're about halfway between the Balanced Rock Wall and Doorway Rocks. Scramble up to the top of the talus field where you'll find a 35 ft slab (The Slab), with The Effie just above it.

70 Total Climbs

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Location: East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 13
Basswood Chimney
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 11
Box top
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 64
New Box
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 75
Sunken Pillar
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 52
Red Pulpit
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 22
Jam Crack
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 4
6.63 Smoots
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 112
Watermarks
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
The White Cloud
TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Der Glotzenlinks
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 47
Der Glotz
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 49
Watermarks Direct
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 13
Beer and Booty
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 22
Morning After
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Law and Gospel
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Basswood Chimney 2. Balanced Rock Wall
 13
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, TR
Box top 3. Box Canyon
 11
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
New Box 2. Balanced Rock Wall
 64
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Sunken Pillar 2. Balanced Rock Wall
 75
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Red Pulpit 2. Balanced Rock Wall
 52
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Jam Crack 3. Box Canyon
 22
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
6.63 Smoots 2. Balanced Rock Wall
 4
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
Watermarks 2. Balanced Rock Wall
 112
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The White Cloud 5. Hole-In-The-Wall
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Der Glotzenlinks 2. Balanced Rock Wall
 7
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Der Glotz 2. Balanced Rock Wall
 47
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Watermarks Direct 2. Balanced Rock Wall
 49
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Beer and Booty 2. Balanced Rock Wall
 13
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Morning After 2. Balanced Rock Wall
 22
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Law and Gospel 2. Balanced Rock Wall
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
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