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Routes in 07: Brinton's Buttress
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Berkeley T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Berkeley Direct TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Brinton's Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brinton's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Brinton's Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cheap Thrills T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Chiaroscuro TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicago T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Evanston Township T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Evanston Township Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Golf Road TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rococo Variations T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rubberman TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sheep Thrills T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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South Side T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Stool Pigeon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | FL: Bob Brinton, 1942 |
| Page Views: | 29,049 total · 105/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Dec 31, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Brinton's is perhaps the most classic among the many classic moderates at Devil's Lake. The elegance of the line, the interesting moves, and the exposure are unmatched.
Follow the main weakness on the left edge of the buttress. This will take you to a cramped alcove. From here, traverse to the right across good footholds, but miserable hand holds. Many consider this the crux. Protection for the traverse is "adequate."
After the traverse, climb straight up a short jam crack (crux #2) to a blocky, airy finish.
Follow the main weakness on the left edge of the buttress. This will take you to a cramped alcove. From here, traverse to the right across good footholds, but miserable hand holds. Many consider this the crux. Protection for the traverse is "adequate."
After the traverse, climb straight up a short jam crack (crux #2) to a blocky, airy finish.
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