Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 716 total · 6/month
Shared By: Paul Jones on Sep 28, 2009
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Thin crack left of Chicago - direct start using the face only, the regular route(10b) starts on a platform 10 feet of the ground. Left side of dihedral is off. Contrived, but good movement.

Protection

Could be led with wires, not a safe fall on the cruxes though.

Photos

Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.10b
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.10b
Did the regular route. The 11b version seemed extremely contrived. Definitely some fun moves at the top going over a roof, but an average climb overall. Nov 28, 2009
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10a PG13
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10a PG13
Led the regular route today. There is a bomber .4 Camalot about 6 feet below the crux and the crux piece is a questionable green DMM brass offset. If you were to blow the moves and rip this piece, you would certainly fall onto the blocks of Puff N' Grunt Chimney. Despite this the moves in the crux are technical though easy to read and fun. I wouldn't go as so far to say it's 5.10b though... Cheatah certainly feels harder by a lot. Apr 24, 2011