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Routes in Brinton's Buttress

Berkeley T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brinton's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheap Thrills T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Chiaroscuro TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicago T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Evanston Township T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Evanston Township Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golf Road TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rococo Variations T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubberman TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sheep Thrills T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Side T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stool Pigeon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 503 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mr. Mix on Mar 22, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Southside climbs the face between Berkeley and Chicago. A bit of a squeeze job, but an enjoyable climb none the less. The crux begins at a small overhang 5 feet right of the niche in Chicago. The line runs pretty much strait up and down from this spot. There is sufficient rest after the crux, but another tricky spot near the top.

Protection

Pro could be placed in adjacent cracks of Berkeley or Chicago. Limited protection on face.

Photos

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Erol Altay  
 
This route is 3 stars. It follows the direct line in the middle of the wall to the summit. Great by definition. Just requires some focus, discipline, and narrow mindedness. Oct 3, 2012
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12a
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12a
A bit contrived, but worth doing if you have the time. Mar 15, 2011
Alex Andrews  
 
I think this a Ralph Schmitt route, to my knowledge is has not been lead, would agree about 3 star NOT, its got some hard moves pulling over the overhang, another squeeze in route, Jul 9, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
thanks for adding this, I wondered what you guys were working so hard on last Sunday. I especially like the sit-down rest you seem to have found! Mar 23, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
Being one that searches MP for classic climbs....can this squeeze job really be 3 stars Mike? Saying that it is close to classic? Or is it more of a fun route that you wouldnt spend the day searching for? To me it sounds like the latter. Mar 23, 2010
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
 
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
 
I would appreciate if someone could share who did the first ascent. Has this route been led? Mar 22, 2010