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Routes in Brinton's Buttress

Berkeley T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brinton's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheap Thrills T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Chiaroscuro TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicago T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Evanston Township T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Evanston Township Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golf Road TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rococo Variations T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubberman TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sheep Thrills T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Side T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stool Pigeon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,033 total, 10/month
Shared By: Paul Campbell on Feb 2, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Climb corner all the way to the top, avoid reaching too far right and using Brinton's crack.

Location

The guidebook lists this route between Stool Pidgeon and Brinton's crack. Obvious corner.

Protection

I don't believe there is any "on-route" protection.

Photos

- No Photos -
John Hayes 1
Shorewood
 
John Hayes 1   Shorewood
 
For lack of better information, we tried various version of this route. If, after the V2 start, you tend to stay on or a bit right of the arete, it seem just a little tougher than Brinton's Direct, maybe a 5.9+. If you tend to stay a bit left on the arete, there's a move about 15ft from the top (just left around the corner from the big undergrip flake on Brinton's Direct) that tripped up 3 of us, and we think we're up to your average 5.10a. Anyone have a better idea of the "official" route? Oct 12, 2015
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
 
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
 
Starting this climb on the arete is a V2 boulder problem. Starting further to the left, as on Stool Pigeon, makes this 10a.
Jun 16, 2013
Michael Sullivan
Seattle, WA
Michael Sullivan   Seattle, WA  
Wow, this climb seemed pretty sandbagged. There are many 10's and even an 11 or two that seem easier to me than this climb. Broke a side pull crimp off on the lower 3rd. Now it might be even harder. Mar 29, 2012