Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: First Lead: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 4,271 total · 20/month
Shared By: chris tregge on Dec 31, 2001 with improvements by Zach Ciaglia
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, chris tregge, James Schroeder

You & This Route


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Description

Chicago is an old school bold lead that has been tamed significantly by the advent of spring loaded cams and better small gear. Start up the crack system with good gear options on the beautiful vertical face. Essentially the same start as Berkely, although perhaps a touch left. At around 20 feet you come to a perfect triangular niche. The crux of the climb is exiting this niche. Once you commit to the moves to take you above the niche, a few more insecure moves deposit you high up on the wall where you can breathe a sigh of relief and take in the scenery.

Protection

The Book calls this route a "Hero Climb", and you know I do belive they are right. The Pro on this route is bad.

A #1 tri Cam fits up in the triangular nitch, which protects the harder section at the top

I left this section untouched from the original contributor, as I thought it was kind of funny. That, and there is a lot of gear beta found below in the comments. I also left the safety rating as "R" as originally submitted but I feel that PG-13 would be more appropriate. Leader beware.

Photos