All Locations > Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 07: Brinton's Buttress

Stool Pigeon

Name: Stool Pigeon
Rating: 3.3

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R

Routes in 07: Brinton's Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Berkeley T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Berkeley Direct TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Brinton's Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Brinton's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Brinton's Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cheap Thrills T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Chiaroscuro TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Chicago T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Evanston Township T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Evanston Township Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Golf Road TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Rococo Variations T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rubberman TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Sheep Thrills T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	South Side T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Stool Pigeon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

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Type:	Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA:	FTR: Ralph Schmidt, FL: Jon Bernhard, First clean lead Gorny
Page Views:	4,928 total · 28/month
Shared By:	Kris Gorny on Oct 20, 2008
Admins:	Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Stool Pidgeon climbs the face just to the left of the buttress corner. Initial unprotected 20 feet of 5.9 (bad fall potential) leads to a crack system with very cool and varied 5.8 climbing. Stuff pro in the last horizontal seam and commit to a 5.11 face with tricky moves and a 30 foot fall potential. Long and airy route.

The 2nd edition of Swartling's "Climber's guide to Devil's Lake" rates the route 5.11b, which I think is correct. The latest 3rd edition rates it 5.10b, which is probably a typo 'cause the crux face is harder than Thoroughfare.

Location

The route starts to the right of Berkeley and few feet left of the buttress corner, underneath the flake-crack system.

Protection

Cams up to BD #2, set of nuts. The horizontal below the crux section takes several small Aliens and slider nuts. The fall from the crux, although potentially long, can be quite safe. The most iffy section is the bottom.