Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: FTR: Ralph Schmidt, FL: Jon Bernhard, First clean lead Gorny
Page Views: 4,091 total · 30/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

Stool Pidgeon climbs the face just to the left of the buttress corner. Initial unprotected 20 feet of 5.9 (bad fall potential) leads to a crack system with very cool and varied 5.8 climbing. Stuff pro in the last horizontal seam and commit to a 5.11 face with tricky moves and a 30 foot fall potential. Long and airy route.

The 2nd edition of Swartling's "Climber's guide to Devil's Lake" rates the route 5.11b, which I think is correct. The latest 3rd edition rates it 5.10b, which is probably a typo 'cause the crux face is harder than Thoroughfare.

Location

The route starts to the right of Berkeley and few feet left of the buttress corner, underneath the flake-crack system.

Protection

Cams up to BD #2, set of nuts. The horizontal below the crux section takes several small Aliens and slider nuts. The fall from the crux, although potentially long, can be quite safe. The most iffy section is the bottom.

Photos