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Routes in Brinton's Buttress

Berkeley T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brinton's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheap Thrills T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Chiaroscuro TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicago T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Evanston Township T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Evanston Township Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golf Road TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rococo Variations T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubberman TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sheep Thrills T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Side T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stool Pigeon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Steve Roper
Page Views: 3,734 total, 28/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Dec 15, 2006
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Description

This route shares the same start as Chicago but traverses right below the triangular niche. After traversing right the crux comes when pulling back to the left on some steeper terrain. The route finishes in a chimney/gully to the right of Chicago's finish. A classic.

Protection

Standard Rack
Apsu
Madison, WI
 
Apsu   Madison, WI
 
This route cruises up to the crux, where my onsight attempt ultimately got shut down because of route finding. There's great gear all the way, but don't waste your time going too far right or left like I did. Things ease up once you get to the tree but the crux seemed like it went on forever--I'd do a couple improbable seeming moves, get to a good stance, and find two more improbable seeming moves. Really good route overall, but be confident during the crux! Oct 8, 2017
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
I'm surprised to see such differences in opinion on this one! I'n not saying it should be a 5.7 but I definitely thought it was a tad harder than Brintons. Who knows, I've done Brintons so many times that maybe I know it too well now.

Gear was great! I didn't place any tiny cams, smallest was a 0.3 C4. Just bring a set of nuts and you're golden! For some extra fun, top out on the face to the left of the chimney but not so far left you're on Chicago.

Awesome route, awesome lead, get on it! Jun 25, 2017
Seth Jones
New Lenox, IL
 
Seth Jones   New Lenox, IL
 
I got off route the first try but made it up easily the second try. I thought this was much easier than Brintons, at least on a top rope. Apr 11, 2016
Chris Sepic
Bend, OR
Chris Sepic   Bend, OR
Moves felt 5.6, but the route finding is a bit tricky. Aug 20, 2012
Gokul

 
Gokul    
 
Don't get why people call this a sandbag. Felt like a pretty solid 5.6, definitely not a 7. Jun 27, 2012
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.7
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.7
Reclimbed this last week...led onsight last year and only gave it 2 stars...once i accepted the fact that this is probably the hardest 5.6 at the lake I appreciated this climb for full value. It truly is good, and it will challenge the 5.8 leader. Also it does protect well, but once again i found myself placing the #0 c3 at the second crux move. Jun 19, 2011
Ben Sherwin
  5.6
Ben Sherwin  
  5.6
Nice climb - perhaps a grade harder than Brinton's for that crux move, a little more burly throughout as well. Jun 6, 2011
Tradiban
  5.6
Tradiban  
  5.6
Man, I thought this thing sewed up and the consensus today was that this is easier than Brintons! May 6, 2011
Forestvonsinkafinger
Iowa
  5.7
Forestvonsinkafinger   Iowa
  5.7
Mr. Strong is right, a tad more challenging that Brinton's throughout. Peenuts and 00's may be handy on this one. Climbing direct through the slabs makes an exciting small "run out." Sep 7, 2010
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.7
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.7
crux on Berkeley in my opinion is much tougher than that of brintons... maybe the fact the pulling the overhanging bulge that was protected by a #00 c3 made it a little heady! Sep 1, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.6
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.6
Doug, thanks for the info. I'm fairly familiar with the DL grading system but it definitely helps to know that this one might be especially stiff. And thanks for the gear beta, too! Mar 17, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Andy, this is an excellent lead. Part of what makes it an excellent lead is that you have to be strategic. You can place a fair amount of gear just before the crux, in the crux, and just after the crux ... but if you use too much gear you will have a lot of bends in the rope (rope drag) and you will wear yourself out in the crux trying to place too much there.

Climbing with confidence is rewarded, as long as the confidence is not misplaced!

The traverse from L to R at the bottom is easy, so try to leave your rope running smooth and straight rather than place a ton of gear at the start.

The FA was Steve Roper, who wrote one of the classic guidebooks to Yosemite, and was well-known for sandbagging easy California climbs. I think this is easily the hardest "5.6" at Devils Lake.

Enough hints? Mar 17, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.6
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.6
What's the pro like on this climb? I know Chicago is rated PG12 or R or whatever... but traversing under the niche... does that give you a bit more for pro? Never been on this climb and I want to give it a go on lead. Mar 16, 2010
Josiah
rapid city, SD
Josiah   rapid city, SD
fun climb. i got lost on the way back down. pay attention to signs people! May 1, 2009
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.6
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.6
Every time that I've climbed this route, I've almost or have gotten stung by wasps nesting in a key hold so be careful, especially if you're allergic to stings. Aug 18, 2007