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Routes in 07: Brinton's Buttress

Berkeley T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brinton's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheap Thrills T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Chiaroscuro TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicago T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Evanston Township T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Evanston Township Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golf Road TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rococo Variations T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubberman TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sheep Thrills T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Side T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stool Pigeon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Pete Cleveland
Page Views: 4,321 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Mar 22, 2003
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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71 Opinions

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Description

Brinton's Direct is an excellent variation to the mega-classic Brinton's Crack. Rather than traversing right at the alcove (a la Brinton's Crack), Brinton's Direct forges a bold path straight up the face. These tenuous and airy moves lead directly (hence the name) to the top of the buttress.

On lead, the climb protects fairly well, but it's just run-out enough to give it that unique Devil's Lake feel. All in all, The Direct is a very worthwhile route on one of the best chunks of stone in the park.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
First Lead : Pete Cleveland Mar 23, 2003
We always used to start a few more feet to the left of that dihedral at the very thin crack. This start is not quite visible behind the belayer's boulder in the photo. These thin cracks go directly up to the hand crack below the alcove. Brinton's Direct also makes for a great aid climb. ABQ. Apr 23, 2003
Maikey Lopera
Eugene, OR
  5.8+
Maikey Lopera   Eugene, OR
  5.8+
Pro up to the alcove is the same as for Brintons crack. After the alcove the crack is thin and there are a few good placements. Use small nuts (BD # 4-5) and alliens for this section. I found particularly useful a orange allien (1.5) and a blue allien(0.375). The blue allien protects te crux after the undercling and sidepull holds. For belay there is a good stance just before topping out. The belay can be set up on uppermost the horizontal crack after the ledge. crack takes cams and nuts up to 0.5in. Aug 3, 2004
Maikey Lopera
Eugene, OR
  5.8+
Maikey Lopera   Eugene, OR
  5.8+
This is an excellent lead to spice up after climbing Brintons crack. Aug 3, 2004
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.9
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.9
Really enjoyed this route...was actually well protected. Classic D lake 5.8 Jun 19, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.9
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.9
Hey anonymous coward,
You said this route makes for a great aid lead. Well i tried it, aid solo, and did not see any way possible to make this route go. Right at the free climbing crux of the route, there was no possible way to place gear or hook for that matter. I was forced to hook right and exit Brinton's direct into the crack system for the regular route. I feel like i explored all options for continuing straight up, unless there is something i missed i don't think aiding this route is possible. Sep 14, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.8+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.8+
Strong, don't be a baby. Sep 15, 2011
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
Aiding is for FIBS! Sep 15, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Ryan, most big aid routes include some mandatory free moves. Using the rock for hand/foot holds in addition to standing in your etriers is also common. Just because you are aid climbing does not mean you can leave your free climbing skills at home! Sep 15, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.9
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.9
Anonymous sand bagged me!! Thanks Doug, i will be doing a big aid route Saturday. West Face of Leaning Tower. Hopefully its easier than Brintons direct! :) Sep 15, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Take a hook for down low, a couple of big pieces for up high, and grab the rock! I think if you can aid this route, you have the gear skills for the West Face ... you just need to add in your Grade V focus. Sep 15, 2011
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
Many of the pitches on the Nose have short sections of 5.6, 5.7 that are mandatory free or super ackward to aid i.e a flaring chimney. The difficulty comes in free climbing a 20ft 5.6 section in aid shoes and tons of gear. Sep 17, 2011

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