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Berkeley
5.6,
Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3 from 178
votes
FA: Steve Roper
Wisconsin
> Baraboo Range
> Devil's Lake
> E Bluff 04 - E…
> 07: Brinton's Buttress
Description
This route shares the same start as Chicago but traverses right below the triangular niche. After traversing right the crux comes when pulling back to the left on some steeper terrain. The route finishes in a chimney/gully to the right of Chicago's finish. A classic.
[Hide Photo] Our rope leader Chris climbing this in his bulky hiking boots! He's alpine training and killing tough routes without the aid of appropriate climbing shoes!
[Hide Photo] Traversing to the right from the triangle niche.
[Hide Photo] On-sighting Berkeley on a cold October afternoon
[Hide Photo] Eric P. undergoing final exam at Berkeley.
[Hide Photo] Eric P. where the course work starts heat'n up at Berkeley.
[Hide Comment] Every time that I've climbed this route, I've almost or have gotten stung by wasps nesting in a key hold so be careful, especially if you're allergic to stings.
Aug 18, 2007
[Hide Comment] What's the pro like on this climb? I know Chicago is rated PG12 or R or whatever... but traversing under the niche... does that give you a bit more for pro? Never been on this climb and I want to give it a go on lead.
Mar 16, 2010
[Hide Comment] Andy, this is an excellent lead. Part of what makes it an excellent lead is that you have to be strategic. You can place a fair amount of gear just before the crux, in the crux, and just after the crux ... but if you use too much gear you will have a lot of bends in the rope (rope drag) and you will wear yourself out in the crux trying to place too much there.
Climbing with confidence is rewarded, as long as the confidence is not misplaced!
The traverse from L to R at the bottom is easy, so try to leave your rope running smooth and straight rather than place a ton of gear at the start.
The FA was Steve Roper, who wrote one of the classic guidebooks to Yosemite, and was well-known for sandbagging easy California climbs. I think this is easily the hardest "5.6" at Devils Lake.
[Hide Comment] Doug, thanks for the info. I'm fairly familiar with the DL grading system but it definitely helps to know that this one might be especially stiff. And thanks for the gear beta, too!
Mar 17, 2010
[Hide Comment] crux on Berkeley in my opinion is much tougher than that of brintons... maybe the fact the pulling the overhanging bulge that was protected by a #00 c3 made it a little heady!
Sep 1, 2010
[Hide Comment] Mr. Strong is right, a tad more challenging that Brinton's throughout. Peenuts and 00's may be handy on this one. Climbing direct through the slabs makes an exciting small "run out."
Sep 7, 2010
[Hide Comment] Reclimbed this last week...led onsight last year and only gave it 2 stars...once i accepted the fact that this is probably the hardest 5.6 at the lake I appreciated this climb for full value. It truly is good, and it will challenge the 5.8 leader. Also it does protect well, but once again i found myself placing the #0 c3 at the second crux move.
Jun 19, 2011
[Hide Comment] I'm surprised to see such differences in opinion on this one! I'n not saying it should be a 5.7 but I definitely thought it was a tad harder than Brintons. Who knows, I've done Brintons so many times that maybe I know it too well now.
Gear was great! I didn't place any tiny cams, smallest was a 0.3 C4. Just bring a set of nuts and you're golden! For some extra fun, top out on the face to the left of the chimney but not so far left you're on Chicago.
Awesome route, awesome lead, get on it!
Jun 25, 2017
[Hide Comment] This route cruises up to the crux, where my onsight attempt ultimately got shut down because of route finding. There's great gear all the way, but don't waste your time going too far right or left like I did. Things ease up once you get to the tree but the crux seemed like it went on forever--I'd do a couple improbable seeming moves, get to a good stance, and find two more improbable seeming moves. Really good route overall, but be confident during the crux!
Oct 8, 2017
[Hide Comment] Just my opinion, but either Brinton's Crack is 5.5 or this is 5.7. They did not feel even close in difficulty. Fun climb though, much more sporty.
Jul 11, 2021
[Hide Comment] I haven’t done a lot of 5.6s at the lake but I’d say this and coatimundi were scary . Used tiny cams, small hex nuts, a tricam, and a #4 c4 . The crux felt so long, as I stayed there for so long with Elvis legs
Oct 31, 2021
[Hide Comment] Fun climb. Here is my opinion and opinion only: If you know where all the holds are then it's like a 5.6 while on top rope. I first trad climbed up and felt like a 5.7. Crux is the middle portion but you can only use tiny cams or nuts for protection. Protection wise I used Used total of 7 pieces. Camlot C4 #0.5 - #2 and Black Diamond stopper set pro nuts #3 - #6. Wish I had cams smaller than 0.5 so I could use that instead. If this route were found in a gym, I'd call it a 5.8.
Oct 2, 2023
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Climbing with confidence is rewarded, as long as the confidence is not misplaced!
The traverse from L to R at the bottom is easy, so try to leave your rope running smooth and straight rather than place a ton of gear at the start.
The FA was Steve Roper, who wrote one of the classic guidebooks to Yosemite, and was well-known for sandbagging easy California climbs. I think this is easily the hardest "5.6" at Devils Lake.
Enough hints? Mar 17, 2010
Longmont, CO
Golden, CO
Iowa
Golden, CO
Madison, WI
Bend, OR
La Crosse, WI
Gear was great! I didn't place any tiny cams, smallest was a 0.3 C4. Just bring a set of nuts and you're golden! For some extra fun, top out on the face to the left of the chimney but not so far left you're on Chicago.
Awesome route, awesome lead, get on it! Jun 25, 2017
Salt Lake City, UT