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Routes in Brinton's Buttress

Berkeley T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brinton's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheap Thrills T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Chiaroscuro TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicago T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Evanston Township T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Evanston Township Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golf Road TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rococo Variations T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubberman TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sheep Thrills T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Side T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stool Pigeon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: TR, 75 ft
FA: Before Chiaroscuro
Page Views: 1,004 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 4, 2006
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

The H links the cruxes of both Chiaroscuro and Brinton's Direct.

Start on Chiaroscuro and climb up the steep, thin wall, past the undercling crux to the point where the Brinton's traverse cuts across the wall. From here, move left (effectively reversing the traverse) to the rectangular niche. It is possible to find an average rest here.

Now, launch into the upper crux of Brinton's Direct. The climbing here is quite pumpy and tricky, and with the pump gained from the lower climbing, certainly feels 5.10.

This link up is quite sustained and is the hardest way up this face.

Protection

None on Chiaroscuro. The Brinton's Direct part protects fairly well.

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Second mention of Sandy W. and the word deviant? Hmmm? Oct 3, 2012
Complete the "H" with a V2 boulder start on the left side of the block at the base. This is Sandy Wegener's deviant version. Oct 3, 2012
Tradiban
  5.10a R
Tradiban  
  5.10a R
Actually, I found this to be easier than straight up Chiroschiro. Protects better, that's for sure. The rock season has begun! Mar 5, 2010
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10a
That's some good history... Apr 17, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Doug, thanks for the clarification. From The Climbers and Hikers Guide (1970):

"The H F9B. The Highlight of your career or your ultimate horror. Start to the right of Brinton's Crack up to Hilton Ledge then left to Brinton's Direct." Apr 16, 2007
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Originally know as "The H" (F9B), according to Smith and Zimmerman. It apparently predates Chiaroscuro? Apr 16, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Yeah, I suppose you have that grade pretty much covered Dec 4, 2006
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10a
Not really the pyramid is pretty full in that area, but I appreciate the thought... Dec 4, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Will this route complete your pyramid James? Dec 4, 2006
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10a
This is a great linkup... Dec 4, 2006