Type: TR
FA: Eric Zschiesche
Page Views: 4,654 total · 24/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Ian CB, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Doug Hemken

You & This Route


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Description

Perhaps the most "doable" of the Devil's Lake 5.13's, Rubberman is a deserved neo-classic. The wall is quite steep by DL standards and the moves feel more sport-like than the other vertical crimping nightmares (like Ice) found in the in the park.

Locate the steep wall left of Boy Scout. The climb starts out with a very difficult and strange mantle move. Start on the jug, and move left hand up to a two finger crimp. Perch your right foot on the jug and reach right hand to a gaston at full extension. Once stabilized, match your left hand to the right, catching the gaston as a sidepul and checking the violent swing. This sequence is probably about V8, though it is difficult to grade such a circus move.

From here, fun, pumpy and still hard climbing continues to the top. This top section feels like hard 5.12. The right corner is off, though it doesn't seem that tempting.

Protection

TR. People have talked about leading this, but to my knowledge it has not been done.

Photos