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Routes in Brinton's Buttress

Berkeley T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brinton's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheap Thrills T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Chiaroscuro TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicago T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Evanston Township T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Evanston Township Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golf Road TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rococo Variations T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubberman TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sheep Thrills T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Side T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stool Pigeon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: TR
FA: Eric Zschiesche
Page Views: 3,701 total, 24/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Perhaps the most "doable" of the Devil's Lake 5.13's, Rubberman is a deserved neo-classic. The wall is quite steep by DL standards and the moves feel more sport-like than the other vertical crimping nightmares (like Ice) found in the in the park.

Locate the steep wall left of Boy Scout. The climb starts out with a very difficult and strange mantle move. Start on the jug, and move left hand up to a two finger crimp. Perch your right foot on the jug and reach right hand to a gaston at full extension. Once stabilized, match your left hand to the right, catching the gaston as a sidepul and checking the violent swing. This sequence is probably about V8, though it is difficult to grade such a circus move.

From here, fun, pumpy and still hard climbing continues to the top. This top section feels like hard 5.12. The right corner is off, though it doesn't seem that tempting.

Protection

TR. People have talked about leading this, but to my knowledge it has not been done.
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Rubberman felt good today, the weather was beautiful. First move felt hard(as my tips were very sore), but better than the last time I was on it. No send yet, but overall this route is super fun, and oh yeah- hard. Mar 17, 2009
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
I'd love to watch someone climb this route. Thanks so much for the great pictures Jay. Incredible! May 11, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
To answer my own questions: there are no holds anywhere near the right corner, and the corner is definitely off. I tried the route for a couple of days, and came soooo close. I just couldn't figure out how to weight the right-hand gaston after rocking up on the good foot. (anybody know the beta?)

This route is absolutely classic, with weird, balancy moves at the start, giving way to beautiful powerful moves through a small roof and up a tight corner. Plus, unlike many hard routes at DL, there are actually holds on the thing. May 4, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Rich,Ok, so you do the really hard mantle move, and you stand up on the good foot. You move right and up now--but how far right? Is the right corner on? Am I thinking of the correct hold near the corner? I believe passing a small roof may be cruxy--are there any moves harder than the mantle? Any info would be appreciated. Apr 1, 2005
hard route.gear would be very dicey.I did the 3rd ascent after eric and Dave .I have real good Betta which I will trade for narcotics. Apr 1, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
 
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
 
jay,is there actually any gear on this thing or should i say gear that would hold a fall? Mar 29, 2005