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Routes in 07: Brinton's Buttress
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Berkeley T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Berkeley Direct TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Brinton's Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brinton's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Brinton's Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cheap Thrills T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Chiaroscuro TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicago T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Evanston Township T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Evanston Township Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Golf Road TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rococo Variations T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rubberman TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sheep Thrills T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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South Side T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Stool Pigeon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | TR |
| FA: | Eric Zschiesche |
| Page Views: | 5,097 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge |
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Description
Perhaps the most "doable" of the Devil's Lake 5.13's, Rubberman is a deserved neo-classic. The wall is quite steep by DL standards and the moves feel more sport-like than the other vertical crimping nightmares (like Ice) found in the in the park.
Locate the steep wall left of Boy Scout. The climb starts out with a very difficult and strange mantle move. Start on the jug, and move left hand up to a two finger crimp. Perch your right foot on the jug and reach right hand to a gaston at full extension. Once stabilized, match your left hand to the right, catching the gaston as a sidepul and checking the violent swing. This sequence is probably about V8, though it is difficult to grade such a circus move.
From here, fun, pumpy and still hard climbing continues to the top. This top section feels like hard 5.12. The right corner is off, though it doesn't seem that tempting.
Locate the steep wall left of Boy Scout. The climb starts out with a very difficult and strange mantle move. Start on the jug, and move left hand up to a two finger crimp. Perch your right foot on the jug and reach right hand to a gaston at full extension. Once stabilized, match your left hand to the right, catching the gaston as a sidepul and checking the violent swing. This sequence is probably about V8, though it is difficult to grade such a circus move.
From here, fun, pumpy and still hard climbing continues to the top. This top section feels like hard 5.12. The right corner is off, though it doesn't seem that tempting.
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