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Routes in Brinton's Buttress

Berkeley T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brinton's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheap Thrills T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Chiaroscuro TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicago T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Evanston Township T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Evanston Township Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golf Road TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rococo Variations T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubberman TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sheep Thrills T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Side T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stool Pigeon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,025 total, 15/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

An element in art, chiaroscuro (Italian for lightdark) is defined as a bold contrast between light and dark.(wikipedia) Chiaroscuro a delicate thin face climb lies in sharp contrast to the thuggish crack-climbing of Brinton's, its neighbor to the left.

Location

This climb starts to the right of Brinton's crack. It ascends through crimpers and the obvious undercling up to Hilton ledge. It is questionable where the route goes from here. One should stay right of Brinton's crack and avoid it.

A great option if you have a variety of climbers of varying abilities is to hang a toprope as for Brinton's Direct, which allows you to climb Brinton's, Brinton's Direct, or link The lower half of Chiaroscuro to Hilton ledge, reverse the crux traverse on Brinton's and finish on Brinton's Direct. (See picture) (not in the notch, but just west of it)

Protection

Lead would be exceptionally bold, that said I'm sure it's been led or soloed. On what gear I don't know.
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
The crux section of Chiaroscuro isn't actually run-out at all. It's just plain unprotected. There is nothing to stop the climber from crashing into the ledge below. Gear at the ledge would only keep you from falling all the way to the ground. Very impressive on-sight lead climb indeed although I find it kind of funny that you did it after wandering off route from Brinton's. They are 2 completely different outings.. hee hee. Jul 27, 2016
Ian Strug
Chicago, IL
 
Ian Strug   Chicago, IL
 
Tradaholic- agree! nice little run out. Quite a fun lead...onsighted by accident my first time at the lake after meandering right of the crack and said...screw it let's put it up! Fun climb, still a fun repeat and warm up. Jul 26, 2016
Tradiban
  5.9+ X
Tradiban  
  5.9+ X
No pro to the rest ledge besides a directional at the top of the slab, then a few decent pieces and a slight run-out. Great climb that is often overlooked! Sep 30, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.9+
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.9+
Awesome climb. Definantly 5.9+ with great balancy movement! Feb 2, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9+
What a great climb. And the ledge for resting in the middle was a great to warm up the hands Sunday. So cold, 32F. Feb 2, 2009
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I've seen the lower section done a couple of different ways. Staying right and tagging the outside corner at regular intervals is easiest for me. Heading for the undercling James mentions is crimpier (if that's a word). Oct 29, 2007