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Routes in 11: Bill's Buttress
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Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 120 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 9,429 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 11, 2002 |
| Admins: | Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE |
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Description
Cheatah is a great, sustained climb on the long east face of Bill's Buttress. Start out by getting above a small 10" overhang using a few key foot placements (be prepared to stretch). Once above the overhang things get slightly easier using the finger crack. About 2/3's up there is a nearly blank face with a 10 foot crack. Use a combination of a layback and finger jams to conquer this section.
For a proper ascent, avoid the jugs on right arete during the crux moves up the thin seam.
From there to the top things get easier.
For a proper ascent, avoid the jugs on right arete during the crux moves up the thin seam.
From there to the top things get easier.
Campton, NH
Madison, WI
eldo sprngs,co
Westminster, CO
Flagstaff, AZ
Most likely you used whatever was in reach at the top. This would make the top feel pretty cruiser, however the grade given is for staying strictly in the seam at the top never straying too far right. Like so many DL routes there are a few holds that are off. I did recently lead this for the first time in a long time and just used whatever I wanted. It is probably a better route that way... Nov 8, 2006
Longmont, CO
Madison, WI
If you are setting up a TR, it's fun to hang the rope out over the nose and finish the route that way, for the sake of the big dynamic moves to jugs and the exposure. Nov 16, 2009
Longmont, CO
Didn't help that it was my belayers first time holding the rope for a lead, much less a fall from a larger than average guy. Nov 12, 2010
East Troy, Wisconsin
Longmont, CO
Madison, WI
La Crosse, WI
La Crosse, WI
Madison, WI
It's probably been 7-10 years since I aided this, so my memory may be playing tricks on me. I remember a couple of cam hook moves I thought were exciting. Feb 29, 2016
Madison, WI
Madison, WI
Madison, WI