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Routes in The Cleo Amphitheater

+ULFBERHT+ T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Barndoor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better When Dry T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Queens TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Roof TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Colostomy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curved Wall T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jack of Spades T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
King's Throne T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
King's Valet, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mickey Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Mum T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Missing Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinko T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plank, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Throne T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Queens Clam, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sluggo TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Throne Room T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tilted Tower T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unnamed 5.3 Corner T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Unkown
Page Views: 10,515 total, 55/month
Shared By: Stephen D. Schaefgen on Mar 9, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

This one is easy, but it is a whole lot of fun. It is about as perfect for leading as climbs get at Devil's Lake and swallows gear so it is good for the begginner leader. Climb the left facing corner to the right of King's Throne. There are two corners there so climb the one on the right. It is a very vertical crack and ends to the right of the tall rock spike atop the climb.

Protection

Standard Rack.
Andy Summers
Madison, WI
  5.4
Andy Summers   Madison, WI
  5.4
No fixed #3 when I did it 10/29/17.

Best easy lead at the Lake? It may not be the most 'exciting', but this thing will eat as much gear as you want to give it. It takes gear so well that I threw away my onsight attempt and used it as an opportunity to gain some trad confidence and took a few practice whips. So much fun! I would have done laps all day if I didn't need to get home.

As far as gear goes, I only used cams, and nothing smaller than #1 C4. If you have a #4, it's useful for a few different placements. Oct 30, 2017
brifo781  
 
Any info on the semi-fixed #3 that showed up on the route? I tried to loose it, as did the group after us, but neither succeeded!! Aug 20, 2017
John Wanner
  5.4
John Wanner  
  5.4
This is probably the best route of its grade at Devil's Lake, if not the best lead there, period. It's one of those climbs you wish were 600 feet long, not 60. Jul 2, 2016
Seth Jones
New Lenox, IL
 
Seth Jones   New Lenox, IL
 
Super fun route to lead on passive gear. 70s style!!! Can sew it up pretty well with nuts and big hexes. Sep 21, 2015
Seth Webster  
 
This has been my favorite route in Devil's Lake. Such a fun climb. I liked it even better than Brinton's Crack (gasp!). May 31, 2015
Adam.IA.climber
Cedar Rapis
 
Adam.IA.climber   Cedar Rapis
 
Very cool climb! Wife and I were able to climb successfully without prior crack climbing skills knowledge! Recommend to everyone! Jul 23, 2011
Josiah
rapid city, SD
Josiah   rapid city, SD
i did the variation. fun route May 4, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
This climb is great. Whether you can climb hard or easy, it is a fun crack climb and a great lead. Aug 18, 2008
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.4
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.4
Great lead for beginners. Also, like the comment above from Anonymous, stick (feet & hands) only to the crack and avoid the wall to your left and the climb definitely becomes a 5.5 jam crack. If you do this, like Birch Tree Crack (5.8), the climb is excellent preparation for the Durrance Crack (P2) of the Durrance route on Devil's Tower. Aug 11, 2007
Ryan
  5.5
Ryan  
  5.5
Awesome route. After completely messing up the simple approach on Friday (8/5/05), we found the Queen's Throne just begging to be climbed. It is interesting to note that the main crack begins at about 1" and widens to about 4" at the top, thus making use of all sizes of bigger gear. There are lots of ledges (as previously noted), but you still need to focus somewhat on staying balanced. I began with a .75 Camalot and used almost every bigger one in my rack. 1 #1, 2 #2's, 1 #3, 1 #3.5, 1 #5. I also placed one big hex. Small nuts/cams aren't really needed if you have the bigger cams. Ok, I threaded it up, but had a blast doing so. The #5 I placed 3 times (I pulled it the first 2 because the wide crack at the top looked like it needed it). I anchored a TR (you'll want to do it more than once!) with a long sling around the pillar and a nut and cam in nearby cracks.

This climb is way fun and highly recommended. There is shade most of the way up which is quite appreciated. Aug 9, 2005
Try sticking exclusively to the crack on the right ie. don't use the wall on the left. I thought it made for a nice variation. May 23, 2002
An outstanding climb. Too much fun, it's like an amusement park ride. Perfect crack, perfect feet, perfect pro.Makes you want to quit your job and get really GOOD at crack climbing. Mar 18, 2002