Elevation: 961 ft
GPS: 43.415, -89.732 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 756,839 total · 5,698/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 11, 2009 with improvements by Kyle Harding
Admins: Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

Description

Overview
Climbing, as we most commonly view it, can be traced back to Devils Lake as early as the 1920’s. However, it wasn’t until decades later when bouldering made its appearance at The Lake. Since then, it has continued to grow within the park. Climbers like John Gill, Eric Zschiesche, and members of the Devils Lake Fukness Association (DLFA) made early contributions to the scene. However, it wasn’t until the mid-2000’s that a group of Madison area locals, many that still frequent the quartzite boulders, began frequenting The Lake that the bouldering potential began to explode.

As climbing continues to grow in popularity, bouldering at Devils Lake is alive more than ever. Now, with arguably over 1,000 recognized problems, the Lake holds a lifetime of bouldering alone. Even more exciting is that new problems are regularly being added to an already seemingly long list.

An awesome short film by Louder Than 11 titled The Good Land - Bouldering At Devils Lake is just one of the many videos out there that give a sense of the amazing bouldering The Lake has to offer.

Guidebooks
  1. Devils Lake Bouldering by Ian Cotter-Brown: A comprehensive guide to bouldering at Devils Lake, including over 900 problems. 
  2. Midwest Bouldering Guidebook by Peter Bonamici (and others): 500+ pages including information on bouldering at The Lake, as well as other popular Wisconsin and Minnesota crags. 
  3. Git On It! By Eric Zscheische:Once the only reference for bouldering at Devils Lake, now a piece a climbing lore that has been reprinted with Eric’s kind permission for all to enjoy.  A slightly different version also appeared as a Rock & Ice mini-guide.
  4. Bouldering On The West Bluff At Devils Lake by Brian Runnells: A mini guide of sorts, this document written by the Climbing Narc himself holds its weight.  

Equipment
The Wisconsin Climbers Association (WCA) rents crash pads out of Madison for $10.00/day to members, or $15.00/day to non-members. For more information, email the WCA at wiscoclimber@gmail.com.

Admission
Devils Lake is part of of the Wisconsin State Park System, requiring the usual admission fees. Daily or annual vehicle stickers can be purchased at various offices or kiosks throughout the park.  

Other
For more information relevant to climbing at Devils Lake State Park, including location/directions, additional guidebooks, accommodations, etc, visit the Devils Lake Climbing page.

Getting There

See the directions under each specific area.

An overview of Devils Lake Bouldering Areas

1,287 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Devil's Lake Bouldering Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Lake Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V-easy 3
 58
Trust Fund Slab
Boulder
V0 4
 65
Super Slab
Boulder
V1 5
 61
Imp Act
Boulder
V1 5
 64
Classic Warm Up
Boulder
V2 5+
 101
Big Bud Arete
Boulder
V3 6A
 46
Flying Mancuso
Boulder
V3 6A
 85
Slope of Dadaism
Boulder
V4 6B
 82
The Flatiron
Boulder
V4 6B
 44
Sunny & 60's
Boulder
V4 6B
 56
P.Stachio
Boulder
V4 6B
 59
Baby Crane
Boulder
V6 7A
 34
Amazing Pillar
Boulder
V6 7A
 45
Starfish
Boulder
V6 7A
 43
Jenga
Boulder
V7-8 7B
 37
What Up Weasel
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trust Fund Slab W Bluff > W Bluff South > 08. Hogleg/Anchorpoint
 58
V-easy 3 Boulder
Super Slab W Bluff > W Bluff Central > Super Slab Area
 65
V0 4 Boulder
Imp Act E Bluff > … > 3. Greatest Show > Greatest Bluff
 61
V1 5 Boulder
Classic Warm Up Burma Rd
 64
V1 5 Boulder
Big Bud Arete E Bluff > … > 1. N Shore > 3. Big Bud
 101
V2 5+ Boulder
Flying Mancuso S Bluff > Reserve > Reserve
 46
V3 6A Boulder
Slope of Dadaism E Bluff > … > 6. Monolith Ridge > 1. E of Trail Boulders
 85
V3 6A Boulder
The Flatiron E Bluff > E Bluff S Face > 3. Flatiron/Guillotine
 82
V4 6B Boulder
Sunny & 60's E Bluff > … > 2. E Bluff N Talus > Sunny & 60s
 44
V4 6B Boulder
P.Stachio W Bluff > W Bluff Central > Stache (aka Dog Walk)…
 56
V4 6B Boulder
Baby Crane Burma Rd
 59
V4 6B Boulder
Amazing Pillar S Bluff > Reserve > Amazing Pillar
 34
V6 7A Boulder
Starfish S Bluff > Reserve > Reserve
 45
V6 7A Boulder
Jenga W Bluff > W Bluff Central > Jenga
 43
V6 7A Boulder
What Up Weasel W Bluff > … > W Bluff North,… > 1. Smooth Operator Area
 37
V7-8 7B Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Lake Bouldering »

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