Overview
Climbing, as we most commonly view it, can be traced back to Devils Lake as early as the 1920’s. However, it wasn’t until decades later when bouldering made its appearance at The Lake. Since then, it has continued to grow within the park. Climbers like John Gill, Eric Zschiesche, and members of the Devils Lake Fukness Association (DLFA) made early contributions to the scene. However, it wasn’t until the mid-2000’s that a group of Madison area locals, many that still frequent the quartzite boulders, began frequenting The Lake that the bouldering potential began to explode.
As climbing continues to grow in popularity, bouldering at Devils Lake is alive more than ever. Now, with arguably over 1,000 recognized problems, the Lake holds a lifetime of bouldering alone. Even more exciting is that new problems are regularly being added to an already seemingly long list.
An awesome short film by Louder Than 11 titled The Good Land - Bouldering At Devils Lake is just one of the many videos out there that give a sense of the amazing bouldering The Lake has to offer.
Guidebooks
Equipment
The Wisconsin Climbers Association (WCA) rents crash pads out of Madison for $10.00/day to members, or $15.00/day to non-members. For more information, email the WCA at wiscoclimber@gmail.com.
Admission
Devils Lake is part of of the Wisconsin State Park System, requiring the usual admission fees. Daily or annual vehicle stickers can be purchased at various offices or kiosks throughout the park.
Other
For more information relevant to climbing at Devils Lake State Park, including location/directions, additional guidebooks, accommodations, etc, visit the Devils Lake Climbing page.
Madison WI
Thanks Steve for making the outline, I think this will hopefully be a little easier to navigate geographically. Sep 25, 2009
Madison WI
Also there is an older miniguide that does not include the West Bluff on this site. climbingtopos.tripod.com/de… It looks like it used to include Tumbled Rocks (West Bluff) but the link has been lost. Nov 4, 2009
rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/ph… Nov 10, 2009
Waukesha, WI
Madison, WI
It fills out some of the missing info on the "copy" topos (info which is available on MP) such as climbs 52 - 56 on the Monolith map. Also clears up the question about a Tumbled Rocks guide (no).
A blast from the past! Apr 25, 2012
Delta, CO
The R&I guide is under their copyright, I presume? Posting one page is probably "fair use" (as long as you include a note about the original source), but posting the whole thing would be a pretty clear infringement ... you could ask them for permission .... Apr 26, 2012
Delta, CO
"Thanks for the query,... in regard to the information and drawings from " Git on it ", feel free to use them. In regards to the R&I article,... I am not sure who has the copyright "rights" to that material. Thanks again, and,... any more questions, fire away.
cheers, Eric"
So if you post copies, please get them from "Git On It!", and make sure to include an attribution. Apr 27, 2012
Madison, WI
Don't believe the John F McArthur bench exists anymore. Wasn't able to find the yellow spray painted dot in the 150ft boulder field either. Apr 30, 2012
Delta, CO
Minneapolis, MN
Waukesha, WI
Big Boy Proj - mountainproject.com/v/big-b…
El Parasol Proj - mountainproject.com/v/el-pa…
Smooth Roof Proj - mountainproject.com/v/smoot…
Impossiproject - mountainproject.com/v/impos…
Rebel Pride Project - mountainproject.com/v/rebel… (ICB sent this, called Rebel Pride V10-) Oct 2, 2013
Waukesha, WI
Big Money Project: mountainproject.com/v/big-m…
Jack Backwards still needs a ropeless ascent in the same area as Big Money: mountainproject.com/v/jack-…
On South Shore, Bald Arete Project: mountainproject.com/v/bald-…
To be honest I can't find much else that really stands out. Soooooo many of the old projects have been climbed over the last couple years. Oct 7, 2013
Madison, WI
Waukesha, WI
Madison WI
vimeo.com/79016423 Nov 25, 2013
Madison WI
vimeo.com/127076812 May 7, 2015
Baraboo
Madison, WI
Madison WI
I'd say you should buy it but I'm a bit biased. Maybe go take a peek at the gym copy at Boulders in Madison or Wildside in Baraboo and decide for yourself.
If you are content with mountainproject for now and truly only want Devil's Lake, I am told the all-inclusive DL-only bouldering guidebook is done or very close. This is Ian Cotter-Brown's book published by K. Daniels Publishing and should be very good as well. Mar 5, 2017