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Devil's Lake Bouldering

Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake

Description

Overview
Climbing, as we most commonly view it, can be traced back to Devils Lake as early as the 1920’s. However, it wasn’t until decades later when bouldering made its appearance at The Lake. Since then, it has continued to grow within the park. Climbers like John Gill, Eric Zschiesche, and members of the Devils Lake Fukness Association (DLFA) made early contributions to the scene. However, it wasn’t until the mid-2000’s that a group of Madison area locals, many that still frequent the quartzite boulders, began frequenting The Lake that the bouldering potential began to explode.

As climbing continues to grow in popularity, bouldering at Devils Lake is alive more than ever. Now, with arguably over 1,000 recognized problems, the Lake holds a lifetime of bouldering alone. Even more exciting is that new problems are regularly being added to an already seemingly long list.

An awesome short film by Louder Than 11 titled The Good Land - Bouldering At Devils Lake is just one of the many videos out there that give a sense of the amazing bouldering The Lake has to offer.

Guidebooks

  1. Devils Lake Bouldering by Ian Cotter-Brown: A comprehensive guide to bouldering at Devils Lake, including over 900 problems. 
  2. Midwest Bouldering Guidebook by Peter Bonamici (and others): 500+ pages including information on bouldering at The Lake, as well as other popular Wisconsin and Minnesota crags. 
  3. Git On It! By Eric Zscheische:Once the only reference for bouldering at Devils Lake, now a piece a climbing lore that has been reprinted with Eric’s kind permission for all to enjoy.  A slightly different version also appeared as a Rock & Ice mini-guide.
  4. Bouldering On The West Bluff At Devils Lake by Brian Runnells: A mini guide of sorts, this document written by the Climbing Narc himself holds its weight.  

Equipment
The Wisconsin Climbers Association (WCA) rents crash pads out of Madison for $10.00/day to members, or $15.00/day to non-members. For more information, email the WCA at wiscoclimber@gmail.com.

Admission
Devils Lake is part of of the Wisconsin State Park System, requiring the usual admission fees. Daily or annual vehicle stickers can be purchased at various offices or kiosks throughout the park.  

Other
For more information relevant to climbing at Devils Lake State Park, including location/directions, additional guidebooks, accommodations, etc, visit the Devils Lake Climbing page.

Getting There

See the directions under each specific area.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gettin on it, Remo in the summer heat.
[Hide Photo] Gettin on it, Remo in the summer heat.
Kinda worth getting up early.  Kinda.
[Hide Photo] Kinda worth getting up early. Kinda.
Full moon rising in the east as the sun sets in the west.  Perfect cap to a great evening.
[Hide Photo] Full moon rising in the east as the sun sets in the west. Perfect cap to a great evening.
Overview of mostly the East and West Bluff bouldering.
[Hide Photo] Overview of mostly the East and West Bluff bouldering.
Best time of year
[Hide Photo] Best time of year
An overview of Devils Lake Bouldering Areas
[Hide Photo] An overview of Devils Lake Bouldering Areas
Come on out May 5th and crush some boulders or take the trad challenge with the WCA!
[Hide Photo] Come on out May 5th and crush some boulders or take the trad challenge with the WCA!
Page 105.
[Hide Photo] Page 105.
Page 104.
[Hide Photo] Page 104.
Page 103.
[Hide Photo] Page 103.
Severe overhang of the "Arrow Boulder".
[Hide Photo] Severe overhang of the "Arrow Boulder".
Page 101. Rock and Ice article issue #99 April 2000. Permission secured from Eric Zschiesche and Rock and Ice.
[Hide Photo] Page 101. Rock and Ice article issue #99 April 2000. Permission secured from Eric Zschiesche and Rock and Ice.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

chris tregge
Madison WI
[Hide Comment] I moved stuff around based on conversations with Brian, Steve, and Remo. Suggestions are always welcome. Also check out wisconsinbouldering.blogspo… for more beta.

Thanks Steve for making the outline, I think this will hopefully be a little easier to navigate geographically. Sep 25, 2009
chris tregge
Madison WI
[Hide Comment] In addition to the link in my post above for Steve's blog, you can find a West Bluff miniguide prepared by The Climbing Narc (click on the link in the second paragraph) here. climbingnarc.com/2009/10/de…

Also there is an older miniguide that does not include the West Bluff on this site. climbingtopos.tripod.com/de… It looks like it used to include Tumbled Rocks (West Bluff) but the link has been lost. Nov 4, 2009
[Hide Comment] anybody recognize the problem he's climbing in this photo? rockclimbing.com/photos/Bou… Nov 10, 2009
[Hide Comment] I would also recommend just looking at his photos. Lots of stuff to get you psyched on bouldering at the lake. One especially cool picture of a sweet looking boulder on the south bluff somewhere.
rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/ph… Nov 10, 2009
[Hide Comment] Tony, I think the line you're looking at is the Ejaculator. Pretty sure at least. Nov 10, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
[Hide Comment] Yeah Steve is right, thats the Ejaculator, I just compared a bunch of photos because I was wondering the same thing myself :) Nov 10, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Nic, I think the best hard projects out there are: Tipping Point-full line(lower start with higher finish), Crack of Doom(has shot down many strong climbers), Block Party(just hard), Toe Hook(one to two really hard moves, ask Peter) and the steep roof behind Smooth Operator(I think you've seen this one). There are many more and I'm sure other people have projects out there too, but these IMHO are some of the best. Come down and send them! Dec 1, 2011
[Hide Comment] I have Eric Z's Rock and Ice guide. I can post to photos for historical interest if legal. It's basically the original for the topos linked here, which, in turn, is the R&I version of Git on It.

It fills out some of the missing info on the "copy" topos (info which is available on MP) such as climbs 52 - 56 on the Monolith map. Also clears up the question about a Tumbled Rocks guide (no).

A blast from the past! Apr 25, 2012
Doug Hemken
Delta, CO
[Hide Comment] I've asked Eric Z to let me know how he feels about all this.

The R&I guide is under their copyright, I presume? Posting one page is probably "fair use" (as long as you include a note about the original source), but posting the whole thing would be a pretty clear infringement ... you could ask them for permission .... Apr 26, 2012
Doug Hemken
Delta, CO
[Hide Comment] Zschiesche writes:

"Thanks for the query,... in regard to the information and drawings from " Git on it ", feel free to use them. In regards to the R&I article,... I am not sure who has the copyright "rights" to that material. Thanks again, and,... any more questions, fire away.

cheers, Eric"

So if you post copies, please get them from "Git On It!", and make sure to include an attribution. Apr 27, 2012
Nathan Wells
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] In regard to Brians Runnells West Bluff Topo Map.

Don't believe the John F McArthur bench exists anymore. Wasn't able to find the yellow spray painted dot in the 150ft boulder field either. Apr 30, 2012
Doug Hemken
Delta, CO
[Hide Comment] I think we got rid of the yellow dot on one of our graffiti clean ups, last Fall. Apr 30, 2012
jaysquared
Minneapolis, MN
[Hide Comment] I can confirm for certain that the yellow dot was removed in the graffiti cleanup. If you look closely you might be able to see a patch of dead lichen on the rock where it once was. It made me think about how often graffiti is referenced as a landmark when navigating to climbing areas at the Lake..and then about how it's kind of useful...and then about how ugly it is..and then how we should remove it...and then how people are going to get lost. Apparently I was right. Apr 30, 2012
[Hide Comment] What are the best undone problems at the lake? I'm getting sick of hiking around looking for them. Oct 2, 2013
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
[Hide Comment] Crack of Doom Proj - mountainproject.com/v/crack… (No longer project, climbed by Pete B 10/6/13)

Big Boy Proj - mountainproject.com/v/big-b…

El Parasol Proj - mountainproject.com/v/el-pa…

Smooth Roof Proj - mountainproject.com/v/smoot…

Impossiproject - mountainproject.com/v/impos…

Rebel Pride Project - mountainproject.com/v/rebel… (ICB sent this, called Rebel Pride V10-) Oct 2, 2013
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
[Hide Comment] Found a few more good looking ones.

Big Money Project: mountainproject.com/v/big-m…

Jack Backwards still needs a ropeless ascent in the same area as Big Money: mountainproject.com/v/jack-…

On South Shore, Bald Arete Project: mountainproject.com/v/bald-…

To be honest I can't find much else that really stands out. Soooooo many of the old projects have been climbed over the last couple years. Oct 7, 2013
Remo
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Ian has a list of about 50 projects that he and Peter came up with. Nic, I still think someone needs to do the Smooth Roof Proj, aka The Cheddarmilker- 8B? And yes, you should go check out B and B! Oct 8, 2013
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
[Hide Comment] Wow 50! Cool to hear there is so much more out there! Oct 8, 2013
chris tregge
Madison WI
[Hide Comment] Maybe a lot of people have already seen this but Steve put together a nice video of some highlights of the Devil's Lake bouldering 2013 season.

vimeo.com/79016423 Nov 25, 2013
chris tregge
Madison WI
[Hide Comment] I added a link to Steve's top 20 boulder problems video above.

vimeo.com/127076812 May 7, 2015
[Hide Comment] Jesus AK, way to stick with it on Starfish, you looked like a brick shit house climbing that thing ;) May 11, 2015
Terry Kieck
Baraboo
[Hide Comment] Great video! No surprise Big Bud was #1. Classic! The video shows the start on the left arete. The traditional start is on the right arete smearing the feet high and throwing for the break. I think it adds a be bit more fun to the problem. May 19, 2015
Remo
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] That's the way I usually do it Terry. I think everyone likes the left start because it's a little more straight forward and has good holds. May 19, 2015
[Hide Comment] Has anyone purchased the guidebook from the Escape Climbing website? If you have, do you think it is worth purchasing if I am only interested in bouldering at Devil's Lake? The book has 500+ pages but encompasses so many different areas. I worry that they don't have most of the problems from DL in the book. I don't see how they would be able to cover at least 500-600 of the 900 problems in approximately 1/3 of the book. If anyone has the book, you mind taking a picture of the list of problems at DL (the index for the problems), so I can get an idea of how many problems they have? I would much appreciate it. Also does anyone know who the second guidebook that solely focuses on DL is made by? Mar 4, 2017
chris tregge
Madison WI
[Hide Comment] David, the Wisconsin half is mostly Devil's Lake. I'll find out exactly how many problems are in there from Peter (want to say around 600?), and some of what is not included are eliminates of the lines that are in there -- if your denominator is the # of problems on MP.

I'd say you should buy it but I'm a bit biased. Maybe go take a peek at the gym copy at Boulders in Madison or Wildside in Baraboo and decide for yourself.

If you are content with mountainproject for now and truly only want Devil's Lake, I am told the all-inclusive DL-only bouldering guidebook is done or very close. This is Ian Cotter-Brown's book published by K. Daniels Publishing and should be very good as well. Mar 5, 2017