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Areas in East Bluff 02 - East of the Quarry

Bandshell, The 5 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Bastille Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Condor Corner 7 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
February Wall 11 / 0 / 11 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Mousehole Buttress 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Near East 10 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Prayer Wall 5 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Rattlesnake Ridge 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
September Wall 5 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Siamese Buttress 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 1,406 ft
GPS: 43.415, -89.695 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 13,289 total, 103/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

Description

Scattered through the woods between the quarry and Roznos Meadow are a dozen smaller quartzite rocks and crags. There are some great routes out here, including "Sickle" (5.10+) and "Shooting Star" (5.11+). The lowest rocks are within 500 feet of the road!

And its pretty secluded out here. In ten trips out here, I have once heard another party nearby, and never actually seen another party. Why ruin it by adding it to the Mountain Project database? The area has pretty good defenses of its own. There are no trails. There is lots of loose talus on every approach. It's very easy to veer on the approach and miss the specific rock you're aiming for. In the summer there are bugs and raspberry bushes and poison ivy. And to top it all off, nearby parking is poor to non-existent.

Getting There

There are two approaches: park along South Lake Drive and scramble up, or park at the CCC lot and hike.

South Lake Drive: From the South Shore, drive east along South Lake Drive, past the group camp and the CCC parking lot. Drive down the hill by the quarry, and under the quarry spoil bank. The are some good pullouts at the east end of the spoil bank for access to U-Haul Overhangs and Aladdin's Castle. For most other rocks it is better to drive a little further and find room to pull off the pavement between the speed limit sign and where the trees end.

If you are coming in from Hwy 113, pass the Roznos Meadow/Old Sandstone parking area, and drive into the woods before parking.

For September Wall and February Wall, it is easiest to park at the CCC, take the CCC trail to the top of the bluff, head back into the woods to the East Bluff Woods Trail/Upland Trail, and hike east until you are above the rock you're looking for, then head south through the woods. There are some faint use trails up here, but this won't be easy if its your first time here!

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff 02 - East of the Quarry

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Condor Corner
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sickle
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Condor Corner Condor Corner 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Sickle Prayer Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
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Photos

There are 1-2 good to great climbs in each of these areas, some even worth their approach on their own but mostly these are short and insignificant pieces of rock to which the 4 star climber would be disappointed.

I DID have a great time traversing this bluff and selecting the good ones to climb in pitches for a nice long day of easy climbing.

With the map provided in Sven's book it isn't bad at all to find these crags as most are either directly next to or directly above/below another. Oct 6, 2010

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