Elevation: 1,196 ft
GPS: 43.417, -89.726 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 29,605 total · 131/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 17, 2002
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

Description

Horse Rampart is located southeast of the electric fence above a large talus field. The area contains a plethora of moderate routes including the challenging Roger's Roof (5.8). The routes here are fairly long and the area at the base of the climbs is very comfortable. Any moderate climber should be able to find a climb that suits them from the 20 or so moderate climbs found here. There are also a handful of more challenging climbs here, including Between the Sheets (5.12c) and Ptolemy (5.11a).

Getting There

To find the Horse Rampart walk north on the railroad tracks from the South Shore parking lot until you get to the electric fence. Duck under the fence and walk up along the Birthday Rocks wall. Go south and east around the Caesarian Tower at the southeast end of the Birthday Rocks and head up the bluff and slightly right along the climber's trail (the more direct and treacherous route is to scramble up the talus slope south of the electric fence). About 200 feet up the bluff you will see the southeast end of the 200 ft long Horse Rampart wall. The majority of the climbs are located near the middle of the wall. The wall terminates at Teetering Tower, a narrow 40 ft tower that leans in towards the wall.

A more direct approach is to scramble directly up the boulder field, past Lothar's Ledges, which may be passed on either the right or the left. Especially when the trail by Birthday is muddy, this may actually be the easiest approach!

Access to the top can be found either up the second or third gully to the left of Monarch, or to the right of Teetering Tower.

28 Total Climbs

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Location: 7.3 - Horse Rampart Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at 7.3 - Horse Rampart

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 3
Sugar-free Jam
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 53
The Horse
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 31
Scavenger of Human Sorrow
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 9
Horse with No Name
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 36
Primak's Surprise
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 35
Pullman Car
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 67
Via Apia
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 46
Lechery
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 35
Debauchery
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Peanut Butter
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Mother Smucker's Jam
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 117
Roger's Roof
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 36
Mung
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Plethora
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Woger's Woof Wightside
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sugar-free Jam
 3
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, TR
The Horse
 53
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Scavenger of Human Sorrow
 31
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Horse with No Name
 9
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Primak's Surprise
 36
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Pullman Car
 35
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Via Apia
 67
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Lechery
 46
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Debauchery
 35
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Peanut Butter
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Mother Smucker's Jam
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Roger's Roof
 117
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Mung
 36
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Plethora
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Woger's Woof Wightside
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in 7.3 - Horse Rampart »

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