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7.3 - Horse Rampart

Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 07 - Railroad…

Description

Horse Rampart is located southeast of the electric fence above a large talus field. The area contains a plethora of moderate routes including the challenging Roger's Roof (5.8). The routes here are fairly long and the area at the base of the climbs is very comfortable. Any moderate climber should be able to find a climb that suits them from the 20 or so moderate climbs found here. There are also a handful of more challenging climbs here, including Between the Sheets (5.12c) and Ptolemy (5.11a).

Getting There

To find the Horse Rampart walk north on the railroad tracks from the South Shore parking lot until you get to the electric fence. Duck under the fence and walk up along the Birthday Rocks wall. Go south and east around the Caesarian Tower at the southeast end of the Birthday Rocks and head up the bluff and slightly right along the climber's trail (the more direct and treacherous route is to scramble up the talus slope south of the electric fence). About 200 feet up the bluff you will see the southeast end of the 200 ft long Horse Rampart wall. The majority of the climbs are located near the middle of the wall. The wall terminates at Teetering Tower, a narrow 40 ft tower that leans in towards the wall.

A more direct approach is to scramble directly up the boulder field, past Lothar's Ledges, which may be passed on either the right or the left. Especially when the trail by Birthday is muddy, this may actually be the easiest approach!

Access to the top can be found either up the second or third gully to the left of Monarch, or to the right of Teetering Tower.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
Moby Dick
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 2
Overlooked Corner
Trad, TR
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 2
Between the Cheeks
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
AAA
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Wolf Dog
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Monarch
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 57
The Horse
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 36
Pullman Car
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Archery
TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 134
Roger's Roof
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Woger's Woof Wightside
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
Treachery
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Lechery
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Debauchery
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 43
Primak's Surprise
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Plethora
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
Ptolemy
TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 43
Scavenger of Human Sorrow
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 83
Via Apia
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 12
Horse with No Name
Trad, TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 1
Uncrustable
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Mung
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Peanut Butter
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Scuz
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Mother Smucker's Jam
Trad, TR
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 4
Sugar-free Jam
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Teetering Tower
TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 1
Teetering Tower Chimney
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Moby Dick
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Overlooked Corner
 2
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Between the Cheeks
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b TR
AAA
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Wolf Dog
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Monarch
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Horse
 57
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Pullman Car
 36
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Archery
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Roger's Roof
 134
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Woger's Woof Wightside
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
Treachery
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Lechery
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Debauchery
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Primak's Surprise
 43
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Plethora
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Ptolemy
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Scavenger of Human Sorrow
 43
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Via Apia
 83
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Horse with No Name
 12
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Uncrustable
 1
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
Mung
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Peanut Butter
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Scuz
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Mother Smucker's Jam
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Sugar-free Jam
 4
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, TR
Teetering Tower
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Teetering Tower Chimney
 1
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Roger's Roof to Lechery
[Hide Photo] Roger's Roof to Lechery
Mung and Uncrustable
[Hide Photo] Mung and Uncrustable
Horse With No Name is somewhat separate from the main wall to the right
[Hide Photo] Horse With No Name is somewhat separate from the main wall to the right
The Horse. These are the left-most routes on the main wall at Horse Rampart.
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This finish for Monarch is what's shown in Knower, and if memory serves me, it seems harder than 5.9 this way and way easier than 5.9 any other way you finish it.
[Hide Photo] The Horse. These are the left-most routes on the main wall at Horse Rampart. This finish for Monarch is what's shown in Knower, and if memory serves me, it seems harder than 5.9 this way and way…
Roger's Roof, Archery, and Pullman Car. The start for The Horse is just around the corner to the left
[Hide Photo] Roger's Roof, Archery, and Pullman Car. The start for The Horse is just around the corner to the left
Sugar Free Jam, Scuz, and Mother Smucker's Jam. Scramble halfway up between the 2 towers to start these climbs.
[Hide Photo] Sugar Free Jam, Scuz, and Mother Smucker's Jam. Scramble halfway up between the 2 towers to start these climbs.
The towers on the SE end of Horse Rampart. 
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The lower half of Peanut Butter is not well described or pictured elsewhere, but this looks like where I would start it. In Knower, Scuz climbs the lower wall just right of Peanut Butter.
[Hide Photo] The towers on the SE end of Horse Rampart. The lower half of Peanut Butter is not well described or pictured elsewhere, but this looks like where I would start it. In Knower, Scuz climbs the lo…
Via Apia, Scavenger of Sorrow, and Ptolemy. Right side of main wall at Horse Rampart.
[Hide Photo] Via Apia, Scavenger of Sorrow, and Ptolemy. Right side of main wall at Horse Rampart.
Lechery to Ptolemy. This is the middle section of the main wall at Horse.
[Hide Photo] Lechery to Ptolemy. This is the middle section of the main wall at Horse.
The right side of the first climbing wall at Horse.
[Hide Photo] The right side of the first climbing wall at Horse.
The first routes as you hike up the climbers trail to Horse Rampart. Wolf Dog has 2 finishes - one hidden in this pic.
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Book oddities: Knower has Moby Dick where Overlooked Corner is, and one book has Between the Sheets, the other has Between the Cheeks
[Hide Photo] The first routes as you hike up the climbers trail to Horse Rampart. Wolf Dog has 2 finishes - one hidden in this pic. Book oddities: Knower has Moby Dick where Overlooked Corner is, and one boo…
new shoots
[Hide Photo] new shoots

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I really like the climbs here. Its the first place I went to at Devils Lake. The only problem is when the sun hits it, the hornets come out of all the cracks you try and climb. But its a GREAT place to hit in the morning. May 7, 2002
[Hide Comment] Home of many climbs with the infamous "5.8" rating. Jun 10, 2010