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Routes in 7.3 - Horse Rampart

AAA TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Archery TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Between the Cheeks TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Debauchery TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse with No Name T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Horse, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lechery T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moby Dick T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monarch T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother Smucker's Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overlooked Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peanut Butter T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plethora T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Primak's Surprise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pullman Car T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roger's Roof T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scavenger of Sorrow T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scuz TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sugar-free Jam T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Teetering Tower TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Teetering Tower Chimney T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Treachery T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Apia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Woger's Woof Wightside TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wolf Dog T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Pete Cleveland, Roger Wiegand
Page Views: 2,079 total, 18/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Sep 3, 2008
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Tricky and overhanging crack followed by jugs higher up. The crux is avoiding pumping out at the right facing corner below the small roof but it's far from over after that. Skinny fingers come in handy. Fun route.

Location

Detached tower at the end of the Horse Rampart. 40 ft past Via Apia.

Protection

The route protects very well. Small to medium nuts, medium to large Aliens or Camalots up to #2. Additional #4 Camalot is very useful in protecting the lower part.

Photos

Remo
Madison, WI
  5.9
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.9
Great route! It's hard to find good 5.9's in the park that are this fun to lead. Jul 25, 2013
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
A weird shoulder jam thing (see picture) allowed for a pretty good almost no hands rest before the last roof, no stepping out left needed. Aug 3, 2011
Absolutely a '3 pitch' climb. I stepped off to the left about every 15 ft. for that needed rest. A really fun route to lead; takes gear easily. Always dark in that corner, tough to get some good pics of the moves. Jul 27, 2011
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9+
Pumpy for sure. Great climb and great gear. Jul 13, 2009
Kris Gorny    
 
Thanks guys! I like the idea of breaking the route into 12 foot pitches. There's a great bivy spot just below the crux, which can be reached by stepping off the route 4 feet to the left. Sep 4, 2008
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Yes!! Agreed! This is one of the best routes for the grade at DL. It's a challenge but takes excellent gear..... Avoiding the temptation to bivi (or merely rest briefly)at the tree ledge halfway can be an added difficulty..... I should have figured it was Pete C. who gave it it's name.... sounds very fitting. Sep 4, 2008
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Not much to look at it, tucked away in a little corner of Horse Rampart (the area was originally known as "Saddle Rocks," a pun of sorts?), this is easily one of the ten best 5.9's at the Lake. And very leadable.

Here is the description from the Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake (1970):

MUNG, F9A. This is the crack system on the N face of the buttress. The protection is good, provided you don't fall off trying to place it. This climb is best broken up into 12 foot pitches. First ascent by Peter Cleveland and Roger Wiegand, using one bivouac. Sep 4, 2008