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Routes in 7.3 - Horse Rampart

AAA TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Archery TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Between the Cheeks TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Debauchery TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse with No Name T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Horse, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lechery T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moby Dick T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monarch T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother Smucker's Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overlooked Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peanut Butter T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plethora T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Primak's Surprise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pullman Car T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roger's Roof T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scavenger of Sorrow T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scuz TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sugar-free Jam T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Teetering Tower TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Teetering Tower Chimney T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Treachery T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Apia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Woger's Woof Wightside TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wolf Dog T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR
FA: Pete Cleveland, first lead Tom D
Page Views: 2,284 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 24, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Woger's Woof Wightside is a very tough face climb over the sizeable roof halfway up the wall. To start, either climb up the lower half of Roger's Roof (the rib to the right of the alcove) or climb up out of the alcove itself. Once up to the overhang position yourself to the right of the handcrack in Roger's Roof. Use small fingerholds to pull yourself up past the roof. Continue to the top with challenging face moves.

Protection

Top Rope
Aawait  
On lead, I fell right below the good holds (and pro) 6 - 8 feet above the roof. I didn't place any gear in Rogers and the fall was a little rough on my ankles but not bad. With Very solid pro in the roof and a good belayer this is a sweet lead. I will have to get back on it! Sep 5, 2013
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
If the right arete is off, then there should be another climb that uses it. There's a terrific sequence that uses the right arete just below the roof to reach high to a left facing side pull just above the roof, then move feet way left to surmount the roof continuing to slap up the arete and use sidepulls. Once above the roof, there are some terrible feet and a couple more difficult moves. Also felt like 11b or 11c. May 31, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.11c
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.11c
Classic route. Took a bit to get the right beta, then went smooth. Sep 15, 2010
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.11c R
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.11c R
If you get the two underclings in the roof and pull directly onto the middle of the face you can't reach the right hand arete. The sequence on the route was hard to find but well worth the effort. Sep 13, 2010
Right arete off huh? CONTRIVED! Fuck it, it IS the lake I guess. Sep 10, 2010
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.11c R
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.11c R
Thanks for the info Alex. I had heard that Tommy D had led it in the past and that the current name was a goof on Pete C's accent. Mar 29, 2010
Alex Andrews
  5.11c
Alex Andrews  
  5.11c
It climbs the roof about 2ft right of Rogers roof, the photo of the girl is off route, FA TR Pete Cleveland, Tommy D, did lead this, and call it Amazon Women on the Rise, Mar 29, 2010
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.11c R
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.11c R
Did you feel the grade was appropriate for 5.11c? The roof seemed extremely difficult to do in this manner. It's hard to tell with the picture of the female climbing since she is farther to the right than I went. Does anyone know how the original line was meant to be climbed? The way I went felt 5.11 with two very different cruxes. The first was pulling the roof and the second was even harder and involved a complete balance/imagine you can walk up bumps on the rock kinda crux. The second crux felt 5.11c to me, while the first was 5.11.

Thanks again for any beta/thoughts. Aug 4, 2008
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.11c R
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.11c R
To climb this, where does the line go exactly? The most natural line heads straight up the bottom face while occasionally grabbing for the large right hand arete. Going through the roof involved using the arete and left hand side-pulls. The face directly through the roof and above without using the right hand arete or being able to reach Rogers Roof crack seemed more 5.12 than 11.

Thanks for any beta. Aug 3, 2008
This is a tough face. I pulled myself over the roof without using the crack and staying about 2-3 feet to the right of it (not using the right corner either). The face just spit me out and I could not see the moves.

I imagine it will repel many others. Maybe I can get some beta on how to do it. Aug 8, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.11c
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
  5.11c
i keep thinking tommy d. lead this?it is a great climb with some hard moves as fer gear,??? Mar 31, 2005
F.A. PROBABLY TOMMY D. Mar 28, 2002