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Routes in 7.3 - Horse Rampart

AAA TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Archery TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Between the Cheeks TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Debauchery TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse with No Name T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Horse, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lechery T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moby Dick T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monarch T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother Smucker's Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overlooked Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peanut Butter T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plethora T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Primak's Surprise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pullman Car T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roger's Roof T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scavenger of Sorrow T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scuz TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sugar-free Jam T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Teetering Tower TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Teetering Tower Chimney T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Treachery T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Apia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Woger's Woof Wightside TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wolf Dog T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: Uknown
Page Views: 1,369 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 24, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Primak's Surprise is found at the inside corner to the right (south) of Debauchery. Climb the inside corner using holds on either side. Once near the top either skirt under the shrub or climb up and left to finish using the top of Debauchery.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

So the long tradition of not reporting the rating in order to not spoil the surprise has been abandoned. I always wondered what the consensus rating would be, but still seems a pity to let the uninitiated in on the surprise. Dec 2, 2003
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Primak's Surprise should get at least one more star. It is a great lead and no give away for the grade. Speaking of the grade? If one stays on line when leading up this route (meaning- climbs along the entire natural corner and crack line from bottom to top) it is a bit harder then 5.6 I would have to say. Is this in fact Primak's actual surprise? Oct 19, 2006
Corey Morris
Landstuhl, Germany
Corey Morris   Landstuhl, Germany
I agree Burt...staying true to the crack is tougher... Apr 14, 2009
Unboundquark
  5.6
Unboundquark  
  5.6
This is a great lead and will take lots of pro. I really enjoyed this route a lot. The guidebook description is right on the money. Every time you hit the "crux" it is followed up by another one LOL. Stick with the natural line up the corner crack and you'll have a very enjoyable climb. Sep 11, 2009
Tradiban
  5.6
Tradiban  
  5.6
The surprise is that's it's a classic DL sandbag at any grade! Jun 10, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
This route is full-on! Great sandbagged lead. Aug 4, 2011
Climbed halfway up this yesterday & had to stop when I heard a rattlesnake up a few feet, hidden on a ledge. Didn't know the rating so I can only assume Primak's surprise is a timber rattler. Be warned! Mar 31, 2014

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