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Routes in 7.3 - Horse Rampart

AAA TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Archery TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Between the Cheeks TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Debauchery TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse with No Name T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Horse, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lechery T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moby Dick T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monarch T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother Smucker's Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overlooked Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peanut Butter T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plethora T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Primak's Surprise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pullman Car T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roger's Roof T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scavenger of Sorrow T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scuz TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sugar-free Jam T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Teetering Tower TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Teetering Tower Chimney T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Treachery T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Apia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Woger's Woof Wightside TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wolf Dog T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 401 total, 5/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Sep 4, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

A powerful, bouldery start, followed by a fun romp up the NW arete. The crux is clawing your way far enough up the NW corner to get your feet on something good.

Smith and Zimmerman (1970) say that this became a 5.9 when a hold broke.

Location

Slender tower at the right end of Horse Rampart, to the right of Mother Smuckers.

Protection

Cam in a horizontal to get you off the ground. After that, not much. There might be one more piece on the North face at mid height?

For the anchor at the top, a couple of cams 1-2 inches, and a couple of medium Offset or Curved nuts. The old bolt might have been necessary in the days of the piton, but with modern gear you can build a good anchor.

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