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Routes in Cleopatra's Needle

Cleo's Needle South-Central Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Comfort Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Northwest Side T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Southeast Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Unkown
Page Views: 14,386 total, 77/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Aug 10, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

East Comfort Route is located on the East side of Cleo's Needle. Start at the base of a pretty obvious dihedral. Make your way up the dihedral by stemming and using the crack. The dihedral is very relaxed and continuous. The dihedral gives way to face climbing about 15 feet from the top. Climb up the final summit pinnacle using nice face holds. Once at the top either sit on top to belay or go around to the other side of the needle to stand on a nice big ledge. Rap off using the ring at the top. Be sure to notice the wobble of the summit block.

Protection

An assortment of small and medium stoppers or cams. Takes pro very well. Setting up an anchor at the top may be a bit tricky.
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
mountainproject.com/v/10720…

Big ass bolt on top..... Nov 3, 2015
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
This is the same as the "East Dihedral". Because Tom misnamed it, things have since gotten duplicated. The photos make it clear. Jun 27, 2012
Jeff Christbaum
Muskego, WI
 
Jeff Christbaum   Muskego, WI
 
My first on-sight trad lead. Took gear very well, with plenty of small C3/C4's being used. The climb was a blast, every step of the way! May 21, 2012
Matt Brodhead
Logan, UT
Matt Brodhead   Logan, UT
My first trad lead... oh... the memories! Apr 17, 2011
We climbed this route Friday morning Aug 17th. We couldn't get the nut out, so we just clipped it on our way by. Both of us were newbies to the tower (and didn't know about the wobbly block at the top). It gave us a pretty good spook. We didn't like the small size of the bolt, so we simul rapped off the block with the rope going thru the rap ring and a notch in the summit block. The wobble just added to the fun morning. Aug 19, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I agree Paul, the whole moving-block routine never gets old. Oh, the looks on their faces... Aug 13, 2007
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.5
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.5
The best thing about Cleo's is when you're introducing somebody new to the Lake's climbs. They always whig out at the top when the huge summit block moves while you're sitting on it. I've never failed to see a newbie question my sanity when I tell them we're rapping off of the bolt at the top instead of down climbing. It's even better when you rap first and leave them to their thoughts while the block moves even more. Aug 11, 2007
I was pleased to find a fixed piton dating, I imagine, from 1964 which is when the rap ring was installed on top. A fun relic of the park's history that wasn't mentioned in the guide books. It still looks solid, so I clipped to it. Apr 30, 2007
Watch out for the wasp nest in the large horizontal crack about 4 feet below the summit. Jul 27, 2004