Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,889 total · 20/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 8, 2003
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route

78 Opinions

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Charybdis is a fine route located about 15 feet east of the giant boulder at the base of Coronary. The route starts out on challenging holds and remains challenging all the way up. Follow the small slanting crack up and right, though you may not use the crack much during your ascent as it is very thin. There is a slight overhang near the top, but the holds are large and copious. I thought the route was very reachy, but with a few runs on it I'm sure the sequences could be honed to make it more graceful. This is a fun, challenging 5.7 which, due to its continuous difficulty, could be considered harder than many 5.7's at the Lake.


Small nuts on your rack, big nuts to get the nerve to lead this thing.
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
The piton that used to be 15 feet up, where the route cuts up the right slanting crack, is no longer there. Sep 8, 2009
chris tregge
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
I don't know if it is where the old one was but there's a new piton on this route, about where Doug says. Sep 20, 2009
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.7 PG13
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.7 PG13
I climbed this on Sunday on lead and almost pooped my pants. I tweaked. Perhaps I as off route but there was not a lot of protection on this route. The moves were not difficult but getting my head wrapped around the run out I had created was challenging. I wasn't going to trust that piton either. Mar 29, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Ha. Someone replaced the old pin on this route with a new one? Probably not a bad idea. The gear placements at the start of this route will test your "experience level" at placing natural gear and especially at placing natural gear at Devil's Lake. It's there though and my philosophy is to place as much as possible low on this route even though any one piece will not be bomber. Too bad you didn't have a smoother time climbing this route Andy but I think with mileage on more and varied DL routes you will feel more comfortable perhaps the next time you lead Charybdis. Mar 29, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
On the other hand, having a "tweaker" experience once in a while whilst lead climbing is a big part of why some folks like to climb. Mar 30, 2010
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
i climbed this last weekend...it truly was a great route...all of the finger locks and lay back moves made it stellar...the line is not overly direct and placing pro was a little tricky but i felt it protected well (micro's) ...big gear not necessary, did use a 1 and .75 at top to build belay Sep 1, 2010
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Fun lead for the grade. Definitely a little spice thrown in for good measure. Jul 19, 2012
Jeff VS  
Charybdis was my first DL lead back in 1970 and is still one of my favorite climbs to do. It is a real "classic" and, top roped or lead, shouldn't be missed. May 28, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.7 PG13
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.7 PG13
I wouldn't want to on onsight this thing if 5.7 was my lead limit. It's heady, and the moves themselves feel a bit committing down low given the gear. I "retro-flashed" it yesterday after not having been on it in 5 years, and it definitely had my attention. So fun, and very alpine feeling up top. Jun 21, 2014
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
Led this onsight Saturday and agree with most things said. My first gear was the piton which you can move with your hand, eek. Clip it and and pull one 5.6 move and you get a totally bomber 0.5 C4. After that it's good, but tricky 5.7 climbing with great gear just as you really start to need it. Jun 25, 2017
Corey Morris
Landstuhl, Germany
Corey Morris   Landstuhl, Germany
I love the protection part of the description.....I have lead so many times with or without experienced partners....the experienced ones say there is no good pro until you hit the ledge....I can't wait to lead this again!! Dec 13, 2018
Big Macs
Madison, WI
Big Macs   Madison, WI
An absolute blast of a climb. Lead required some thought, but pro is all there. Can't beat the scenery at Hawk's Nest too! Mar 28, 2019