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Routes in Hawk's Nest

27 Hours of Labor TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alpha Centauri T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Angina T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Angina II T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Anomie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bucket Brigade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Charybdis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coronary T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Hernia TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flakes Away TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hunting Grounds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Land's End T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother Fletcher's T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nice Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Fruit Please TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pie Plate TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R. Exam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp (a.k.a. "The Slab"), The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scylla T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vivesection T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walpurgisnacht T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walpurgisnacht Direct T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Yellow Pages T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,258 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 9, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Coronary is found at Hawk's Nest just above the giant 20-ft high boulder. Start on the east side of the boulder and climb up the corner made by the wall and boulder. Stand on top of the boulder, place a stopper to your right, and slither over to the ledge about 5 feet right. Scrape out a mantel to gain this ledge, then head up and slightly left following the protruding rock (enjoy the exposure!) to the shallow dihedral. Aim for the pine tree above and finish out this nice climb.

Protection

Standard Rack for lead. For Top Rope setup go up Leaning Tower Gully and turn left. Walk west about one hundred feet. Look for a short rock/mortar wall. Jump over the wall and descend the small gully to the tree on the left. Anchor your rope so it hangs down to the right of the tree.
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
An alternate (and better) start is to climb the first half of "Scylla." See Burt & Jerry's photos. Nov 14, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I see someone (or it may have ejected on its own?) finally disposed of the large loose block at the midway point on this route. The route is now much safer and I don't think the overall difficulty has changed. It changes the character of the route though for sure. Aug 2, 2010