Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,323 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 9, 2003
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Coronary is found at Hawk's Nest just above the giant 20-ft high boulder. Start on the east side of the boulder and climb up the corner made by the wall and boulder. Stand on top of the boulder, place a stopper to your right, and slither over to the ledge about 5 feet right. Scrape out a mantel to gain this ledge, then head up and slightly left following the protruding rock (enjoy the exposure!) to the shallow dihedral. Aim for the pine tree above and finish out this nice climb.

Protection

Standard Rack for lead. For Top Rope setup go up Leaning Tower Gully and turn left. Walk west about one hundred feet. Look for a short rock/mortar wall. Jump over the wall and descend the small gully to the tree on the left. Anchor your rope so it hangs down to the right of the tree.

Photos

Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I see someone (or it may have ejected on its own?) finally disposed of the large loose block at the midway point on this route. The route is now much safer and I don't think the overall difficulty has changed. It changes the character of the route though for sure. Aug 2, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
An alternate (and better) start is to climb the first half of "Scylla." See Burt & Jerry's photos. Nov 14, 2011