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Routes in Hawk's Nest

27 Hours of Labor TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alpha Centauri T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Angina T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Angina II T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Anomie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bucket Brigade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Charybdis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coronary T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Hernia TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flakes Away TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hunting Grounds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Land's End T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother Fletcher's T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nice Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Fruit Please TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pie Plate TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R. Exam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp (a.k.a. "The Slab"), The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scylla T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vivesection T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walpurgisnacht T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walpurgisnacht Direct T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Yellow Pages T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Devils Lake Old School
Page Views: 2,634 total, 14/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

The phrase "happy hunting grounds" comes from early interpretations of some Native American concepts of heaven. The place they described was a mirror image of this world, and a utopia of sorts; a place of peace and abundance.

At Devils Lake however, Happy Hunting Grounds is a long, stand out classic for the grade which demands a cool head, and control of your footwork. Its also a showcase route for the Hawks Nest, and starts out on the right side of the wall. This technical face route follows an incipient seam system up a gorgeous swath of stone passing marginal small wire placements and 5.9 climbing. A thoughtful and positive 5.11- crux with a few good pieces of gear awaits at 2/3 height, and is followed by more airy climbing on good holds with spacey pro. Aim for the small notched roof before the angle break, and then romp to the top.

This is a fairly serious lead for the grade, and you'll want to make sure you are up for it. The 1979 guide offers this captivating advice if you question your skills: "Leaders who fall on this climb may go to the happy hunting grounds". That said, it is also a gateway route to other more difficult, bold pitches at the Lake. It's an inspiring line, one to remember, and it takes a pretty light rack!

Protection

Doug and Chris please change this up if there have been "modern" placements discovered. Otherwise a good selection of small to medium wires and a rack of TCUs should do the trick. It does seem like we always had a few placements before the crux though? Maybe they were only rated for mental weight... I carried both RPs and Loweballs on my rack there back in the day.
I am pretty sure that the first free lead of Happy Hunting Grounds was done by Andy Cairns. He was a graduate student at U.of Chicago at the time when I was an undergraduate there. I seconded Andy on the climb but I wound up taking one fall. Andy, however, lead the climb flawlessly. The year would have been 1974 or 75. Hope that this helps. Jan 26, 2014
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Yo punters, As far as I know the FFA was by Pete Cleveland in the mid to late 60's and the first lead is a toss up for either Tommy D , Prunes Bechler or Ralph Schimdt. I believe Tommy was quite keen on this route back in the day. Great DL route. Peace and f-nes Steve S. Sep 8, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
And we don't have an FA? Not in the Extremists Guide? There's a DL mystery that needs solving! Sep 7, 2013
Tradiban
  5.11a R
Tradiban  
  5.11a R
I buried a purple BD C3 right at the crux, then nothing to put in until you hit the rest ledges. Classic route! May 15, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I agree that there is no AO on the route (unless you lead it and pull on gear through the crux--efficient but lacking in style points). The crux move, though is definately 5.11a. Maybe 5.10d. Certainly not 5.10a like the header states. I led this climb last summer, and the crux could not be better protected ( a bomber stopper and a Lowe Ball). The start however is serious, and akin to soloing 5.9. All in all, this climb is a great bold lead, and great mental training for leading some of the other bold harder leads in the park (Callipigeanous Direct, Son of Great Chimney, Orgasm Direct, etc). May 22, 2003
So heres how my interest came to be for this route:

Magic Ed had a thing for this climb saying how he always wanted to lead it but was intimidated. We did it on top rope, being that I'm fairly tall I had no problems with the route, in fact I couldn't see why he had a problem with it.

So just to work My buddy up I let him know that I was gonna do it...Wooo Hooo this got him goin' but still not on the route. So anyway it was time to pony up.

During my lead I actually slipped before getting my gear in whew.......But held on got the gear and the lead. This climb lead to a flurry of 5.10 leads that afternoon

One of my finest days at the lake

Oh & Magic Ed.......Climbed the route, like a kid on a quarter Horse ride at the market 2 weeks later

See Photos May 20, 2003