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Routes in Hawk's Nest

27 Hours of Labor TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alpha Centauri T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Angina T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Angina II T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Anomie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bucket Brigade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Charybdis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coronary T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Hernia TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flakes Away TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hunting Grounds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Land's End T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother Fletcher's T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nice Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Fruit Please TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pie Plate TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R. Exam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp (a.k.a. "The Slab"), The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scylla T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vivesection T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walpurgisnacht T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walpurgisnacht Direct T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Yellow Pages T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Jay Stewart
Page Views: 1,095 total, 10/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Sep 22, 2008
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Up into the alcove. Exit to the right (the crux). Move up and right a few moves, then continue more or less straight up. It is also possible to move just a little further right, and get on the middle part of "Alpha C."

Location

In between "Charybdis" and "Alpha Centauri" is an alcove capped by a roof.

Protection

Standard rack, with one big cam to 4 inches.

Photos

I lead this back in the 80's with hexes, wires and RP's, no big cam's needed. It protected surprisingly well, it's one of the nicer 5.8's at the lake. Mar 9, 2017
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
 
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
 
I thought about correcting you Bart, then I decided it was funnier to not correct you. Sep 12, 2012
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Sincere apologies to Remo. In my previous comments to him I couldn't perform the simple task of addressing him with his actual name. Sep 12, 2012
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Oh cool Adam. Nick had me freak'n in my climbing slacks about onsight lead'n this route. Sep 11, 2012
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.8
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.8
Isaac is right Burt. I used two #3 C4's in my first three placements. The big slot that Matt is going to in the second picture takes one of these beautifully. After that I had a small wire, and a mix of smaller sized cams to the top. Enjoy! Sep 11, 2012
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.8
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.8
Be ready for a little spice and biggish gear for the lake. Sep 10, 2012
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Adam.... Gear Beta? This one is on my hit list still for this year! Sep 10, 2012
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.8
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.8
Awesome lead! Much more enjoyable and protectable than Charybdis, IMO. Sep 10, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
 
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
 
Ha! Yeah Nick, I was stumped there for a while too, then shoved a larger (#3 I think?) cam semi-blindly upward into where Matt's right hand is on this photo: mountainproject.com/v/wisco… Classic route. Sep 28, 2010
Tradiban
  5.9+ PG13
Tradiban  
  5.9+ PG13
Sandbag! I did the roof exit moves and buried a #2 Ball-nut that was hard to get in. It made me think; "What would I have done without that ball-nut?" Classic DL. May 15, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
 
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
 
Agree-- protecting that crux move, unless you can see the future, is troublesome. Sep 20, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.8+
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.8+
Fun crux section. Definitely makes you think before you move. Jul 27, 2009
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
The crux moves may not be obvious, and protecting them may be even less obvious, but the rest of the route is straightforward, classic Devils Lake face & incipient crack climbing. Sep 22, 2008