Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: First Lead: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 5,336 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

The start of the route is sequential, starting with your right hand will help TONS.

From the start to the crux is solid 10 but the chills out to a fun 8ish afterwards.

IMHO this is one of the MOST fun climbs at its grade at the lake.

Protection

Actually this is a Mixed route, with a pin right after the crux.

Spoiler-alert - James Schroeder adds headpoint gear-beta:

General:
  • Hard to find anything bigger than a #1 C4 before the ledge.
  • A crash pad might make the crux-boulder-problem start feel reasonable.
Specific:
  • A #000 C3 before the pin might make the moves to the pin feel better.
  • The pin is getting sketchy (can a #1 KB be anything but?) - a large "pin-side" carabiner on your QD will probably lever over the edge, whereas a smaller probably won't.
  • A #0.4 X4 slots in the horizontal after the pin - not the greatest piece.
  • A few more moves to decent gear in the corner where a variety of small cams (#0.3 X4 to #1 C4) to the ledge.
5/23/18

Photos