Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: First Lead: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 5,009 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, chris tregge, James Schroeder

You & This Route

46 Opinions

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The start of the route is sequential, starting with your right hand will help TONS.

From the start to the crux is solid 10 but the chills out to a fun 8ish afterwards.

IMHO this is one of the MOST fun climbs at its grade at the lake.


Actually this is a Mixed route, with a pin right after the crux.

Spoiler-alert - James Schroeder adds headpoint gear-beta:

  • Hard to find anything bigger than a #1 C4 before the ledge.
  • A crash pad might make the crux-boulder-problem start feel reasonable.
  • A #000 C3 before the pin might make the moves to the pin feel better.
  • The pin is getting sketchy (can a #1 KB be anything but?) - a large "pin-side" carabiner on your QD will probably lever over the edge, whereas a smaller probably won't.
  • A #0.4 X4 slots in the horizontal after the pin - not the greatest piece.
  • A few more moves to decent gear in the corner where a variety of small cams (#0.3 X4 to #1 C4) to the ledge.


Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
First lead: Jim Erickson May 23, 2003
A long, fun climb in a shady, comfortable area. Aug 19, 2005
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
I just lead this thing today for the first time in a long time. After the pin, the next piece of gear is a #2 BD about eight feet up past the pin. Another good body length above is a solid blue metolious tcu, followed closely by a solid green Camalot. Anyway, I could think of a handful of tens that would be a much better introduction to leading 5.10 than this thing. It deffinately has a touch of spice. A great line and one of the best around for the grade. Sep 28, 2006
I led this once in a warm summer rainstorm--the fact that I had it wired helped a bit!! There is a good rp placement before the pin--right after the hard start--if you want to bother. Jul 24, 2008
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
The nicest version of this line starts up Alpha C., then jogs right to the incipient crack that forms the middle section of Vivisection. Sep 22, 2008
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
Definitely agree with Doug that the best version goes up and right. Sep 20, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
disagree with the author's description. this thing stays with you well past the low section. the 5.7 bit doesn't kick in till about the 50 ft mark!

take small gear for this guy. purple - orange TCU's.

also, if setting up an anchor after the lead, be sure to take a piece of 20ft webbing or a cordelette. there's a tree at the back of the ledge that makes for an excellent anchor point!

lastly, if using a 60m or shorter rope, be weary of the rope end when lowering or rapping. May 24, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10d R
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10d R
I'm going to have to say this is an R rated lead. If you don't use the pin for your first piece, your first piece of gear is about 5 feet below it and is the smallest C3 (000). After that the pro is spaced out but very good. And the 5.10 definitely stays with you after the crux and it is not until about 50 feet that the 5.7 (if that) kicks in. But, I have to agree with everyone else... this route is definitely 4 stars for consistency and quality of quintessential Devil's Lake moves. Aug 13, 2011
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
Out of curiosity, Andy, after the pin did you go right and join Vivisection's upper seam or move left into that crack system? When I did it I went left (much easier), but not before getting good gear at the bottom of the right seam. Aug 14, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10d R
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10d R
I got a good C3 in the right crack (but within reach) and then did a great cross through move to stay left on Alpha C. Probably gonna head up and do Vivisection next weekend. Aug 14, 2011
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
I seem to remember soloing this one day in about 1981.I just started up it just bouldering out the start and the next thing I knew I was about 50 feet off the ground and old Bill Russell starts hassling me from vivesection. Pretty funny as Prunes Immeadiatly tells Bill he will be off belay ifn he doesnt shut up. Oct 29, 2011
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Classic lead! Committing to the pin, but after that the gear gets better the higher you go. Jul 19, 2012
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
Hey Steve, I remeber solo'ing this with you way back when on a Monday when I had every other Monday off and you were more than willing to hang at the Lake an extra day to pull down. Good Times! Oct 23, 2013
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Ed, Nice to see you made it.....i.e. You are still alive! Yes those were some fun solo's back then. You were one of the few who would sack up and solo this with me back then. Mondays at lake were awesome cause there was usually no one else there. Look me up sometime, I am "living the dream " in Eldo. Peace and f-nes Steve S. Oct 28, 2013