Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hawk's Nest

27 Hours of Labor TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alpha Centauri T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Angina T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Angina II T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Anomie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bucket Brigade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Charybdis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coronary T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Hernia TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flakes Away TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hunting Grounds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Land's End T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother Fletcher's T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nice Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Fruit Please TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pie Plate TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R. Exam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp (a.k.a. "The Slab"), The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scylla T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vivesection T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walpurgisnacht T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walpurgisnacht Direct T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Yellow Pages T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: First Lead: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 4,660 total, 24/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


52 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The start of the route is sequential, starting with your right hand will help TONS.

From the start to the crux is solid 10 but the chills out to a fun 8ish afterwards.

IMHO this is one of the MOST fun climbs at its grade at the lake.

Protection

Actually this is a Mixed route, with a pin right after the crux.
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Ed, Nice to see you made it.....i.e. You are still alive! Yes those were some fun solo's back then. You were one of the few who would sack up and solo this with me back then. Mondays at lake were awesome cause there was usually no one else there. Look me up sometime, I am "living the dream " in Eldo. Peace and f-nes Steve S. Oct 28, 2013
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
Hey Steve, I remeber solo'ing this with you way back when on a Monday when I had every other Monday off and you were more than willing to hang at the Lake an extra day to pull down. Good Times! Oct 23, 2013
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10c
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.10c
Classic lead! Committing to the pin, but after that the gear gets better the higher you go. Jul 19, 2012
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
I seem to remember soloing this one day in about 1981.I just started up it just bouldering out the start and the next thing I knew I was about 50 feet off the ground and old Bill Russell starts hassling me from vivesection. Pretty funny as Prunes Immeadiatly tells Bill he will be off belay ifn he doesnt shut up. Oct 29, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10d R
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10d R
I got a good C3 in the right crack (but within reach) and then did a great cross through move to stay left on Alpha C. Probably gonna head up and do Vivisection next weekend. Aug 14, 2011
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
Out of curiosity, Andy, after the pin did you go right and join Vivisection's upper seam or move left into that crack system? When I did it I went left (much easier), but not before getting good gear at the bottom of the right seam. Aug 14, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10d R
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10d R
I'm going to have to say this is an R rated lead. If you don't use the pin for your first piece, your first piece of gear is about 5 feet below it and is the smallest C3 (000). After that the pro is spaced out but very good. And the 5.10 definitely stays with you after the crux and it is not until about 50 feet that the 5.7 (if that) kicks in. But, I have to agree with everyone else... this route is definitely 4 stars for consistency and quality of quintessential Devil's Lake moves. Aug 13, 2011
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
disagree with the author's description. this thing stays with you well past the low section. the 5.7 bit doesn't kick in till about the 50 ft mark!

take small gear for this guy. purple - orange TCU's.

also, if setting up an anchor after the lead, be sure to take a piece of 20ft webbing or a cordelette. there's a tree at the back of the ledge that makes for an excellent anchor point!

lastly, if using a 60m or shorter rope, be weary of the rope end when lowering or rapping. May 24, 2010
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.10d
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.10d
Definitely agree with Doug that the best version goes up and right. Sep 20, 2009
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
The nicest version of this line starts up Alpha C., then jogs right to the incipient crack that forms the middle section of Vivisection. Sep 22, 2008
I led this once in a warm summer rainstorm--the fact that I had it wired helped a bit!! There is a good rp placement before the pin--right after the hard start--if you want to bother. Jul 24, 2008
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I just lead this thing today for the first time in a long time. After the pin, the next piece of gear is a #2 BD about eight feet up past the pin. Another good body length above is a solid blue metolious tcu, followed closely by a solid green Camalot. Anyway, I could think of a handful of tens that would be a much better introduction to leading 5.10 than this thing. It deffinately has a touch of spice. A great line and one of the best around for the grade. Sep 28, 2006
wayniak
 
wayniak  
 
A long, fun climb in a shady, comfortable area. Aug 19, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
First lead: Jim Erickson May 23, 2003