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Alpha Centauri
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 3.8 from 59
votes
Routes in 17: Hawk's Nest
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27 Hours of Labor TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Alpha Centauri T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Angina T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Angina II T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anomie T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bucket Brigade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Charybdis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coronary T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Double Hernia TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flakes Away TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hallucination T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Happy Hunting Grounds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Land's End T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mother Fletcher's T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Nice Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Fruit Please TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pie Plate TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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R. Exam T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ramp (a.k.a. "The Slab"), The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Scylla T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Vivesection T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Walpurgisnacht T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walpurgisnacht Direct T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wingspan TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yellow Pages T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | First Lead: Jim Erickson |
| Page Views: | 5,873 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Anderson-Brown on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge |
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Description
The start of the route is sequential, starting with your right hand will help TONS.
From the start to the crux is solid 10 but the chills out to a fun 8ish afterwards.
IMHO this is one of the MOST fun climbs at its grade at the lake.
From the start to the crux is solid 10 but the chills out to a fun 8ish afterwards.
IMHO this is one of the MOST fun climbs at its grade at the lake.
Spoiler-alert - James Schroeder adds headpoint gear-beta:
General:
- Hard to find anything bigger than a #1 C4 before the ledge.
- A crash pad might make the crux-boulder-problem start feel reasonable.
- A #000 C3 before the pin might make the moves to the pin feel better.
- The pin is getting sketchy (can a #1 KB be anything but?) - a large "pin-side" carabiner on your QD will probably lever over the edge, whereas a smaller probably won't.
- A #0.4 X4 slots in the horizontal after the pin - not the greatest piece.
- A few more moves to decent gear in the corner where a variety of small cams (#0.3 X4 to #1 C4) to the ledge.
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