Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Pete Cleveland first TR and probably lead as well
Page Views: 2,326 total · 12/month
Shared By: chris tregge on Mar 23, 2003
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


37 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A thin bouldery start leads one into an alcove which yields scant protection opportunities. The mental crux is committing to hard moves to leave the safety of a good stance in a trough onto the thin vertical face above. This route protects reasonably well and is quite sustained until high up where it slabs out. A bold onsight lead.

Protection

Usual DL stuff. Bring along your small gear.
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Another must do on the wall... Start in overhang/dihedral with underclings and a crimp on the left. Some strenuous moves will lead to easier climbing after the roof, though still sustained. The gear is very thin, or very spaced. A set of RPs wouldn't hurt, though larger pieces pop up now and then. Sep 28, 2006
CurtisG
  5.11a PG13
CurtisG  
  5.11a PG13
Gear is spaced AND thin. Bring all your small stuff and don't expect relief until entirely after the roof. Then get what you can in and finish up on the vertical crack systems with some thiner face holds. Good climb that stays in the 5.10 range for a good 45 feet of climbing and another 40ft of easier ledges to the tippy top. Aug 24, 2008
Tradiban
  5.11a R
Tradiban  
  5.11a R
On my on-sight some FIBS dog came around the corner as I was 15ft up without gear yet and tangled his ass up in the rope.

My belayor: "WHO'S FUCKING DOG IS THIS?!?!!?"

FIB: "THAT'S MY FUCKING DOG!".

My belayor: "HE ALMOST PULLED MY BUDDY OFF THIS!"

FIB: "NO HE FUCKING DIDN'T!"

Witness': "Ummm....yea, he almost did."

FIB: Silence......

From now on I will be giving Jedi mind control lessons at DL every Saturday ;) May 15, 2010
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Ya, that was some crazy shit. One damn good reason to keep your dog on a leash at the crag, or just leave it home for that matter. Crag dogs are great and all, but shit...... May 18, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Just when you think you've got all the risks under control ...

Nick on lead: "Dude! Give me some slack! I can't make this clip!."

Belayer: "Woof!" May 18, 2010
Dmitriy Litvak
Pacifica, CA
  5.11a PG13
Dmitriy Litvak   Pacifica, CA
  5.11a PG13
If you cannot onsight 5.11a at the lake, check the gear before you go.
Might save you an ankle or more. Gear is really tricky at the start. Aug 2, 2010
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
 
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
 
I think Pete Cleveland probably did the first lead as well. Anyone ? Oct 29, 2011
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
 
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
 
Chris please turn this one loose to someone else for the description it deserves better. Thanks Oct 4, 2015
Pro is not that dicey. Once you’ve done the finger lock at the bottom of the dihedral start (the “Margaret Thatcher move”) you can lock off and get a small wire in over the roof. Above the roof, there is a perfect roller-ball placement (they exist anymore?). Thereafter, the pro is good. Jul 31, 2018