Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 434 total · 4/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

This route is not included in the Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake. The name comes from a play on words of 27 Years of Climbing in the Red River Gorge. Start by climbing a cute, little problem using the thin crack and finger lock left of the prominent water mark at base. Once over this, trend right on a large layback flake. Make a dynamic move to a very decent ledge which is often times home to local pigeons. From here fire straight up over the right facing corner on small holds.

Location

Starts 5 feet left of R. Exam. Move right onto R. Exam and over into the right facing corner/overhang.

Protection

Unknown

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10a
So, as it turns out... this route is essentially R. Exam (5.9) with a slight variation. At the top, once you've pulled the deviously hard roof move, go right to finish instead of using the corner. The sidepulls are essential to delineating this climb from R. Exam. Sep 27, 2010
Eh...a VERY minor variation. How about changing this one to be the route that exits right on that right-facing corner at the baby-making ledge? That might justify a new name. Sep 28, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10a
Changed it. How about a lead of this one now? Hmm? Sep 28, 2010
Cool, it might end up following the corner right instead of straight over it. Might be gear in the seams right of the corner. We shall see... Sep 28, 2010