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Routes in Hawk's Nest

27 Hours of Labor TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alpha Centauri T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Angina T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Angina II T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Anomie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bucket Brigade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Charybdis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coronary T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Hernia TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flakes Away TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hunting Grounds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Land's End T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother Fletcher's T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nice Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Fruit Please TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pie Plate TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R. Exam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp (a.k.a. "The Slab"), The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scylla T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vivesection T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walpurgisnacht T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walpurgisnacht Direct T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Yellow Pages T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: First Lead: Sheldon Smith
Page Views: 1,528 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 14, 2005
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Locate an ugly-looking crack at the base of Hawks Nest, about fifty feet left of Happy Hunting Grounds. Now, look up and notice the tiered roof system. This is the route.

The climb starts on the crack, known as the Funnel (5.6), and much maligned due to its insecure climbing and poor pro. Rest assured: the Funnel is only about twenty feet long. Next, continue up easy, broken ledges, reminiscent of an alpine climb. This leads you to the base of the best part of the climb, an overhanging corner system.

Climb the corner, made easy by stemming and huge buckets (hence the name), past a relic piton if it is still there, and flop onto a ledge with a perfect view of the Lake. If you are looking for an adventure climb at the Lake, then look no further, and tie in for Bucket Brigade.

Protection

Gear. Toproping is problematic due to the length and the convoluted nature of this part of the cliff.

Photos

NegativeK
Chicago, IL
NegativeK   Chicago, IL
Gear beta:

There's a constriction you can thread the loop of a big 'ole nut through as your first piece. The stance for it isn't bad.

Rope drag became significant at the end, but that's because I'm not experienced enough to be able to predict what needs extending.

A 60m rope touched the ground fine. May 7, 2017
Ben Gleason
Durango, CO
Ben Gleason   Durango, CO
In response to Paul's comment, I top roped it with a 60 a couple days ago. Just enough to tie the 8. Oct 17, 2013
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.7
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.7
Super long climb for the lake. 70m rope had hardly any rope left once the TR touched the ground.

Probably about a 115 foot climb. Jul 27, 2009
Jesse Bond  
 
The Funnel is a bit of a sketch fest and felt really insecure. Gotta love those akward low sections. Though Rob was able to protect it pretty well with a couple of hexes. The rest of this climb is a blast. Might want to use a little more caution as you get into the top sections. I know I grabbed at several rocks that were just itching to tear loose. So be careful. Sep 12, 2005