Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: First Lead: Sheldon Smith
Page Views: 1,669 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 14, 2005
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Locate an ugly-looking crack at the base of Hawks Nest, about fifty feet left of Happy Hunting Grounds. Now, look up and notice the tiered roof system. This is the route.

The climb starts on the crack, known as the Funnel (5.6), and much maligned due to its insecure climbing and poor pro. Rest assured: the Funnel is only about twenty feet long. Next, continue up easy, broken ledges, reminiscent of an alpine climb. This leads you to the base of the best part of the climb, an overhanging corner system.

Climb the corner, made easy by stemming and huge buckets (hence the name), past a relic piton if it is still there, and flop onto a ledge with a perfect view of the Lake. If you are looking for an adventure climb at the Lake, then look no further, and tie in for Bucket Brigade.

Protection

Gear. Toproping is problematic due to the length and the convoluted nature of this part of the cliff.

Photos

Jesse Bond  
 
The Funnel is a bit of a sketch fest and felt really insecure. Gotta love those akward low sections. Though Rob was able to protect it pretty well with a couple of hexes. The rest of this climb is a blast. Might want to use a little more caution as you get into the top sections. I know I grabbed at several rocks that were just itching to tear loose. So be careful. Sep 12, 2005
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.7
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.7
Super long climb for the lake. 70m rope had hardly any rope left once the TR touched the ground.

Probably about a 115 foot climb. Jul 27, 2009
Ben Gleason
Durango, CO
Ben Gleason   Durango, CO
In response to Paul's comment, I top roped it with a 60 a couple days ago. Just enough to tie the 8. Oct 17, 2013
Everett
Nevada
Everett   Nevada
Gear beta:

There's a constriction you can thread the loop of a big 'ole nut through as your first piece. The stance for it isn't bad.

Rope drag became significant at the end, but that's because I'm not experienced enough to be able to predict what needs extending.

A 60m rope touched the ground fine. May 7, 2017
Jordan Weiler
Durango
 
Jordan Weiler   Durango
 
The 1st couple of moves through the funnel sucks but defiantly worth getting through for the upper portion Apr 7, 2018