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Routes in Hawk's Nest

27 Hours of Labor TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alpha Centauri T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Angina T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Angina II T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Anomie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bucket Brigade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Charybdis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coronary T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Hernia TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flakes Away TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hunting Grounds T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Land's End T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother Fletcher's T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nice Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Fruit Please TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pie Plate TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R. Exam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp (a.k.a. "The Slab"), The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scylla T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vivesection T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walpurgisnacht T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walpurgisnacht Direct T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Yellow Pages T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 85 ft
FA: DLFA
Page Views: 636 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tradiban on May 15, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Follow the watermarks right of Happy Hunting Grounds. Angle left and pass the small overhang on the right side.

Location

Face right of Happy Hunting Grounds.

Protection

Only pro is at the crux and after. Solo to crux!
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Nice heady lead climbing (um er solo climbing) Nick. Nice job. Yikes! Sep 28, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+ X
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+ X
Yeah, good lead Rhoads. I was nervous for you on this one. My palms were even sweaty until you got to that ledge! Sep 27, 2010
Tradiban  
 
Start left with your hands on a nice ledge for better value, then move right and straight up to the baby making ledge for a tricky traverse left. From there set up for an awesome crux. I found some nice C3 placements right at the crux. Too bad I had to solo to get there :(

After the crux moves left for more value under the roof to exit right.

Really good 5.9+ head-test piece of climbing. Sep 27, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+ X
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+ X
The route description in the guidebook is pretty poor. If one does follow the watermarks it will take them through way harder than 5.9 climbing and it will not take them to an overhang on the right side of the wall. If you go to the right of the watermarks after the first 15 feet and follow a roof section and exit in a shallow dihedral, it is definitely 5.9 climbing. My girlfriend and I did the difficult variation of this route that starts left of the watermark on a good ledge, up to some crimpers, then right to the watermark, straight up to a good ledge via dyno, traverse left 8 feet on a very large ledge to an undercling mini-roof section and then up on sidepulls or edges that finishes on a large sloping ledge. Our proposed route name for this variation is "27 Hours of Labor" with an estimated grade of 5.10d. Aug 8, 2010