Type: Trad, TR, 85 ft
FA: DLFA
Page Views: 677 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tradiban on May 15, 2010
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Follow the watermarks right of Happy Hunting Grounds. Angle left and pass the small overhang on the right side.

Location

Face right of Happy Hunting Grounds.

Protection

Only pro is at the crux and after. Solo to crux!

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.9+ X
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.9+ X
The route description in the guidebook is pretty poor. If one does follow the watermarks it will take them through way harder than 5.9 climbing and it will not take them to an overhang on the right side of the wall. If you go to the right of the watermarks after the first 15 feet and follow a roof section and exit in a shallow dihedral, it is definitely 5.9 climbing. My girlfriend and I did the difficult variation of this route that starts left of the watermark on a good ledge, up to some crimpers, then right to the watermark, straight up to a good ledge via dyno, traverse left 8 feet on a very large ledge to an undercling mini-roof section and then up on sidepulls or edges that finishes on a large sloping ledge. Our proposed route name for this variation is "27 Hours of Labor" with an estimated grade of 5.10d. Aug 8, 2010
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Start left with your hands on a nice ledge for better value, then move right and straight up to the baby making ledge for a tricky traverse left. From there set up for an awesome crux. I found some nice C3 placements right at the crux. Too bad I had to solo to get there :(

After the crux moves left for more value under the roof to exit right.

Really good 5.9+ head-test piece of climbing. Sep 27, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.9+ X
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.9+ X
Yeah, good lead Rhoads. I was nervous for you on this one. My palms were even sweaty until you got to that ledge! Sep 27, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Nice heady lead climbing (um er solo climbing) Nick. Nice job. Yikes! Sep 28, 2010