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Routes in 06: Gill's Buttress
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A Cleveland Route TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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A-Frame (aka Uranus), The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Acid Rock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blood Alcohol TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Boy Scout T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Fantasy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gill's Cheek T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Gill's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gill's Nose TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gills Nose Direct T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Glutton for Punishment TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ice TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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In Search of the Lost Libido TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Peyote Blues TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Psilocybin TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Spine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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| Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Pete Cleveland and Steve Wunsch. First Lead: Jason Huston 2006 |
| Page Views: | 11,097 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Doug Hemken on Jun 30, 2002 |
| Admins: | Ian CB, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Doug Hemken |
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Description
Scramble uphill between Pedestal and Gill's buttresses. The route starts from the flat detached block that forms a platform below Gill's buttress. From the platform, step across gap on the right side of the thin face. Make several moves up and then a powerful move left on microscopic feet: the iron cross. Your goal is to stick the "Crouton Check valve" (a "crouton" being an old Lake term for a gumby). Now the difficulties have started! Move up the center of the face, avoiding the left edge if possible. May not be quite 40', but it feels like an entire rope length. Beta-intensive.
The story of the first lead is in the MP Forum.
The story of the first lead is in the MP Forum.
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