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Routes in 06: Gill's Buttress

A Cleveland Route TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Acid Rock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Alcohol TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Boy Scout T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fantasy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gill's Cheek T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gill's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gill's Nose TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gills Nose Direct T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Ice TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peyote Blues TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psilocybin TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slut For Punishment TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Twin Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
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Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Pete Cleveland and Steve Wunsch. First Lead: Jason Huston 2006
Page Views: 9,285 total · 47/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Jun 30, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Scramble uphill between Pedestal and Gill's buttresses. The route starts from the flat detached block that forms a platform below Gill's buttress. From the platform, step across gap on the right side of the thin face. Make several moves up and then a powerful move left on microscopic feet: the iron cross. Your goal is to stick the "Crouton Check valve" (a "crouton" being an old Lake term for a gumby).  Now the difficulties have started!  Move up the center of the face, avoiding the left edge if possible. May not be quite 40', but it feels like an entire rope length.  Beta-intensive.

The story of the ​first lead​​​ is in the MP Forum.

Protection

TR or headpoint.
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
fa: pete cleveland and steve wunsch Jun 30, 2002
Can you get past the cruton Check Valve???? May 20, 2003
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
the crouton stopper!yo,why hasnt this thing been led?or has it?soloed? i mean with enough top-rope rehearsal you can get this thing so wired.oops i mean "head-pointing",pre rehearsing routes on t.r. now has a cool name. anyway,i had thought about leading it on sky hooks with 5ml tag lines on them that the belayer held down tight after you placed them,but then i moved away and saved myself the trouble. does the sky hook idea sound to crazy,people do it. Mar 24, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.12a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.12a
I agree with Steve. Why has this not been led? Many regulars have this route wired into submission, so you would think that a lead ascent would be the natural progression. True, there is no pro to speak of, and the landing is, shall we say, "career ending". Mar 29, 2005
Anonymous  
 
Actually scoped out the pro in '85. It's there. Two very (very-very) good horizontals. Difficulty is they're just after the check valve. Maybe a knifeblade high and right to make a fall off the cv "only crippling." Apr 13, 2005
Eat your hearts out. First lead: Jason Huston. 9/26/2006

badass Sep 27, 2006
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.12a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.12a
Nice work Jason! Sep 27, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.12a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.12a
I really never thought I would see the day. Bravo Jason. Sep 28, 2006
David A Groth
Lacrosse
David A Groth   Lacrosse
Awesome lead, lets hear some details! Oct 24, 2006
Tradiban
  5.12a X
Tradiban  
  5.12a X
God, nice lead Huston. I'm still trying to fish in some decent gear on the first part. I'm thinking maybe a Trango Splitter Cam. I did figure some tall man beta to do that crux move more smoothly, dialing it in! Apr 21, 2009
Tradiban
  5.12a X
Tradiban  
  5.12a X
Ding! This one is done. I found that any hooks just got in my way in the middle so I stuck in some directionals at the start and then was able to stick in a good cam to the left before I made the traversing moves.
A classic climb and a standard for the grade. Oct 13, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12a
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12a
Nice work Rhoads!!! Oct 13, 2009
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Jay, Thanks for repostin Jason's essay. [Editor's note: The essay has been removed.][New editors note, the essay can be found here.] Its interesting to reread it and gain more perspective into what was going on in his head.He obviously thought hard about what he was setting out to do( ask a mom)As well as become somewhat obsessed with the climb.
Bechler use to bug me about trying to lead Acid Rock as I had it more wired than he did,i remember lookin at the gear. At the time we couldnt bring our selves to place a pin on it but I thought about using hooks.Ultimatly i left to start a new life in colorado.Excuses ,excuses,it all adds up to what we use to call "failure to pull down" on my part.
I think its great that jason led it and sent one of the best climbs at DL. A very proud send!(not to mention his other amazing leads at DL. Club Salute. Steve S. Mar 1, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12a
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12a
Hey Jay, Steve, or anybody for that matter, does anyone know who soloed the route? And when? I was reading the forum from the original post and saw it mentioned? Just curious. Mar 3, 2011
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Remo,the Solo of Acid Rock was by Mike McCarren late 80's 0r early 90's
(same dude who soloed Bagatelle and slew of other hard routes that he did not bother bragging about)Peace and F-nes Steve S. Mar 3, 2011

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