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Routes in 06: Gill's Buttress
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A Cleveland Route TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Acid Rock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blood Alcohol TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Boy Scout T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Fantasy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gill's Cheek T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Gill's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gill's Nose TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gills Nose Direct T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Ice TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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In Search of the Lost Libido TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Peyote Blues TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Psilocybin TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Slut For Punishment TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Spine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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| Type: | TR, 40 ft |
| FA: | Pete Cleveland and Steve Wunsch. First Lead: Jason Huston 2006 |
| Page Views: | 9,213 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Doug Hemken on Jun 30, 2002 |
| Admins: | Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Scramble uphill between Pedestal and Gill's buttresses. The route starts from the flat detached block that forms a platform below Gill's buttress. From the platform, step across gap on the right side of the thin face. Make several moves up and then a powerful move left on microscopic feet: the iron cross. Your goal is to stick the "Crouton Check valve" (a "crouton" being an old Lake term for a gumby). Now the difficulties have started! Move up the center of the face, avoiding the left edge if possible. May not be quite 40', but it feels like an entire rope length. Beta-intensive.
The story of the ​first lead​​​ is in the MP Forum.
The story of the ​first lead​​​ is in the MP Forum.
eldo sprngs,co
eldo sprngs,co
Campton, NH
badass Sep 27, 2006
Sauk County, WI
Campton, NH
Lacrosse
A classic climb and a standard for the grade. Oct 13, 2009
Madison, WI
eldo sprngs,co
Bechler use to bug me about trying to lead Acid Rock as I had it more wired than he did,i remember lookin at the gear. At the time we couldnt bring our selves to place a pin on it but I thought about using hooks.Ultimatly i left to start a new life in colorado.Excuses ,excuses,it all adds up to what we use to call "failure to pull down" on my part.
I think its great that jason led it and sent one of the best climbs at DL. A very proud send!(not to mention his other amazing leads at DL. Club Salute. Steve S. Mar 1, 2011
Madison, WI
eldo sprngs,co
(same dude who soloed Bagatelle and slew of other hard routes that he did not bother bragging about)Peace and F-nes Steve S. Mar 3, 2011