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Routes in Bill's Buttress

Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 4,052 total, 31/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Apr 19, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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43 Opinions

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Description

Crack route around corner to right of Cheetah route. Very nice pure crack route for bottom half. Top half climbs through sustained and steep wall/corner/roof. Crux through wide section and small overhang in middle section.
One can side step the crux of the middle section to the left but the crux section should not be missed.

Location

Left side of large dark corner chimney that makes up the right side of Bill's Buttress. Around the corner to the right of route "Cheetah".

Protection

Excellent all sizes and types of gear. Wider cam or hex to protect the brief wide crux section.
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.10a PG13
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.10a PG13
Amazing hidden climb. Amazing moves, great gear!

BETA ALERT:

You can can sew this up solid with (in order)

EDIT: I gave it PG13 because if the gear at the upper crux pulled or you fell while placing it there is ledge fall potential.

#1 c4
#0.75 c4
#3 c4
#4 c4

All below the first roof and after that you can place 1 or 2 nuts from the ledge then climb to:

#0.75 x4 in shallow horizontal out right
#1 c4 right below the upper roof

You probably don't need the #4 c4 but when I whipped on it I was glad it was there!

Go do it!!!
Jul 5, 2015
Bob Hebel
New London, WI / Plattevill…
 
Bob Hebel   New London, WI / Plattevill…
 
Last weekend a climber stepped on a fairly big rock on the route to the left (ignominy) and it shifted a few inches. It is about halfway up, inside the big chimney off to the left and is considered "still a bit sketchy", so be cautious. Apr 20, 2015
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10a PG13
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10a PG13
When I led this, I went out right after the crack and was getting super pumped and run out. To me the giant flake ledge in the upper 3rd of the route was a life saver. I reached it and let out a loud "Thank God". Jun 29, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
Yeah, literally it's hidden... but it's unfortunate this route doesn't see more action! It's very good and the wide section is pretty entertaining and the upper crux (two variations, one to the left and one to the right directly over the roof) is very exciting. The only fault of this route is the huge platform that breaks up the route and therefore lacks consistency. Jun 28, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.9
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.9
hidden gem Jun 28, 2011
If you lead it, watch out for the Ledge about 1/2 way up. Take some small gear with. Aug 19, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10a PG13
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10a PG13
I just found out from Rhoads that I did this wrong. I stepped out right after the crack and continued through "no gear" territory until I reached the top of the giant flake. Apparently you are actually supposed to step out left after the crack. That would be the reason for me giving it a 5.10a grade.

So now....

Breakfast of Champions Direct 5.10a - Step out right after the crack, surmount the overhang, continue on slopers and crimps to top of large flake. Finishes from here the same as original route. Sep 2, 2009
mandyf
grand junction, co
5.8
mandyf   grand junction, co
5.8
I would say this is a 5.8. It probably feels harder if you aren't comfortable jamming and try to layback though. Very Fun! Aug 30, 2009
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
  5.8
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
  5.8
Loved this route. Great movement. I think the crux is forearm diameter dependent though. I used a very comfortable forearm jam that got me through the crux making if feel like a Lake 5.8 Jul 15, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.9
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.9
This is a really fun route and a great lead. Jun 10, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10a PG13
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10a PG13
I would say this route is a 5.10a

4-stars for sure. Great movement. A bit runout after the roof. Jun 5, 2009
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
Yes Jay. I agree. Always have been thinking BOC is another one of those famously under rated routes at DL. And especially if folks stay on route through the wide section and roof it is a tough one for a 5.8. Harder then other 5.8's at the East Bluff? Apr 20, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I think I might like this route a lot more now that it's rated 5.9+. The 5.8 rating always seemed like an insult. Apr 19, 2007