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Elevation: 1,104 ft 336 m
GPS: 43.01231, -90.12181
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 62,389 total · 293/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 21, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

Description Suggest change

While Box Canyon does not have the quanity that other areas in the park have, it does offer several of the alpha classics to be found. The largest boulder in this grouping contains in all rights the most recognizable classic at Governor Dodge, The Godfather. The first known ascent of this overhanging line of sidepull pockets and laybacks was done in the late 80's by Dave Groth.

When Dave first told me about this spot he said that he had cleaned and done six lines on The Godfather boulder. Then in the early 90's Eric Zschiesche and John "The Verm" Sherman came to the park specifically to climb on The Godfather boulder as part of their Stone Crusade Tour, which led to the creation of John's book by the same name. This book focused on some of the best known bouldering areas in the United States and offered some colorful history. I think it would be fair to say that the classics here had been done thirty years ago.

The area sports about half a dozen good lines and a handful of other less inspiring lines. Unless you flash all the highballs this area has enough to keep you occupied for half a day or so. The good side of the The Godfather boulder gets decent afternoon sun in late fall/early winter.

Getting There Suggest change

From the front office take a right and head towards Cox Hollow lake. There will be a windy section in the road skirted by praries that eventually drops down into the hollow. At the base of the hill are two parking areas, one on either side of the main road. Park in the left one signed Box Canyon. You can see the boulders from this parking area.

The easiest hike to godfather is to exit the box canyon parking lot and turn right, walk up the road for around 120ft until just before Seein' Elle Boulder on your right. There is a footpath that will take you to Seein' Elle and Godfather without needing to hack through much under brush.

54 Total Climbs

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Location: 1. Box Canyon Boulders Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Box Canyon Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 77
Corleone's Corner
Boulder
V1 5
 64
Zoro's Conundrum
Boulder
V1 5 PG13
 7
Dust in the Corner
Boulder
V2- 5+
 30
space ship traverse
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
Soul Food
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 65
The Good Times are Killing Me
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
Deadshot
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 6
Shapes Of My Soul
Boulder
V4 6B
 174
The Godfather
Boulder
V4 6B PG13
 6
Cosa Nostra
Boulder
V5 6C
 47
All in the Family
Boulder
V5 6C
 6
All in All
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
The Lorax
Boulder
V6- 7A
 11
Sleeping With The Fishes
Boulder
V6 7A
 30
Cannons
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Corleone's Corner 3. Godfather Boulder
 77
V0 4 Boulder
Zoro's Conundrum 1. Seein' Elle Boulder
 64
V1 5 Boulder
Dust in the Corner Chicago Bloc
 7
V1 5 PG13 Boulder
space ship traverse 1. Seein' Elle Boulder
 30
V2- 5+ Boulder
Soul Food 2. Dinosaur Boulder
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
The Good Times are Killing Me 3. Godfather Boulder
 65
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Deadshot Gotham Boulder
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Shapes Of My Soul 2. Dinosaur Boulder
 6
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
The Godfather 3. Godfather Boulder
 174
V4 6B Boulder
Cosa Nostra 3. Godfather Boulder
 6
V4 6B PG13 Boulder
All in the Family 3. Godfather Boulder
 47
V5 6C Boulder
All in All 3. Godfather Boulder
 6
V5 6C Boulder
The Lorax 6. Mustache Boulder
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Sleeping With The Fishes 3. Godfather Boulder
 11
V6- 7A Boulder
Cannons 7. Cannon Boulder **h…
 30
V6 7A Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Box Canyon Boulders »

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