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Areas in Box Canyon Boulders

Blade boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cannon Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Godfather Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Knoob Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Mustache Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Prickler Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Seein' Elle Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Singled Out Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Tick Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
dinosaur boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 1,105 ft
GPS: 43.012, -90.122 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE
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Description

While Box Canyon does not have the quanity that other areas in the park have, it does offer several of the alpha classics to be found. The largest boulder in this grouping contains in all rights the most recognizable classic at Governor Dodge, The Godfather. The first known ascent of this overhanging line of sidepull pockets and laybacks was done in the late 80's by Dave Groth.

When Dave first told me about this spot he said that he had cleaned and done six lines on The Godfather boulder. Then in the early 90's Eric Zschiesche and John "The Verm" Sherman came to the park specifically to climb on The Godfather boulder as part of their Stone Crusade Tour, which led to the creation of John's book by the same name. This book focused on some of the best known bouldering areas in the United States and offered some colorful history. I think it would be fair to say that the classics here had been done thirty years ago.

The area sports about half a dozen good lines and a handful of other less inspiring lines. Unless you flash all the highballs this area has enough to keep you occupied for half a day or so. The good side of the The Godfather boulder gets decent afternoon sun in late fall/early winter.

Getting There

From the front office take a right and head towards Cox Hollow lake. There will be a windy section in the road skirted by praries that eventually drops down into the "hollow". At the base of the hill are two parking areas, one on either side of the main road. Park in the left one signed Box Canyon. You can see the boulders from this parking area. You just drove by them...

38 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Box Canyon Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Dobbe  
I put in two days of unearthing the top and did not get to finish. I would like to clean the rest and there might be two more lines. I would like it if I could get on them first, but not the end of the world if not (I will just hate you for ever). I don't think they will be harder then V3 put would like to get then cleaned up right. Jun 5, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Go get it man! Apr 27, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
I may have to disagree a bit here. The line you speak of Paul does sound a bit contrived, but to my knowledge, undone. By your description it sounds like it simply climbs on the face only between godfather and all in the family? If you are looking for a challenge I say go for it. Apr 27, 2009
Be aware, the crux of the area is how you are going to get off the boulder. I ended up climbing down the large tree by Godfather. Nov 1, 2007
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Finally made it out to the area today. All classic problems All in All is a blast, must do for wisco boulderers. Jun 9, 2007

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