Elevation: 1,105 ft
GPS: 43.012, -90.122 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 41,867 total · 245/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 21, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

Description

While Box Canyon does not have the quanity that other areas in the park have, it does offer several of the alpha classics to be found. The largest boulder in this grouping contains in all rights the most recognizable classic at Governor Dodge, The Godfather. The first known ascent of this overhanging line of sidepull pockets and laybacks was done in the late 80's by Dave Groth.

When Dave first told me about this spot he said that he had cleaned and done six lines on The Godfather boulder. Then in the early 90's Eric Zschiesche and John "The Verm" Sherman came to the park specifically to climb on The Godfather boulder as part of their Stone Crusade Tour, which led to the creation of John's book by the same name. This book focused on some of the best known bouldering areas in the United States and offered some colorful history. I think it would be fair to say that the classics here had been done thirty years ago.

The area sports about half a dozen good lines and a handful of other less inspiring lines. Unless you flash all the highballs this area has enough to keep you occupied for half a day or so. The good side of the The Godfather boulder gets decent afternoon sun in late fall/early winter.

Getting There

From the front office take a right and head towards Cox Hollow lake. There will be a windy section in the road skirted by praries that eventually drops down into the "hollow". At the base of the hill are two parking areas, one on either side of the main road. Park in the left one signed Box Canyon. You can see the boulders from this parking area.

The easiest hike to godfather is to exit the box canyon parking lot and turn right, walk up the road for around 120ft until just before Seein' Elle Boulder on your right. There is a footpath that will take you to Seein' Elle and Godfather without needing to hack through much under brush. 

40 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Box Canyon Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 54
Corleone's Corner
Boulder
V1 5
 40
Zoro's Conundrum
Boulder
V2- 5+
 19
space ship traverse
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 55
The Good Times are Killing Me
Boulder
V3 6A
 7
Plutocrat
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 4
Shapes Of My Soul
Boulder
V4 6B
 128
The Godfather
Boulder
V4 6B PG13
 5
Cosa Nostra
Boulder
V5 6C
 36
All in the Family
Boulder
V5 6C
 6
All in All
Boulder
V5 6C
 5
An Offer He Couldn't Refuse
Boulder
V6 7A
 27
Cannons
Boulder
V6 7A
 3
The Snitch
Boulder
V8+ 7B+
 4
The Basilisk AKA Cannons Sit
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Corleone's Corner Godfather Boulder
 54
V0 4 Boulder
Zoro's Conundrum Seein' Elle Boulder
 40
V1 5 Boulder
space ship traverse Seein' Elle Boulder
 19
V2- 5+ Boulder
The Good Times are Killing Me Godfather Boulder
 55
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Plutocrat Seein' Elle Boulder
 7
V3 6A Boulder
Shapes Of My Soul dinosaur boulder
 4
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
The Godfather Godfather Boulder
 128
V4 6B Boulder
Cosa Nostra Godfather Boulder
 5
V4 6B PG13 Boulder
All in the Family Godfather Boulder
 36
V5 6C Boulder
All in All Godfather Boulder
 6
V5 6C Boulder
An Offer He Couldn't Refuse Godfather Boulder
 5
V5 6C Boulder
Cannons Cannon Boulder
 27
V6 7A Boulder
The Snitch Godfather Boulder
 3
V6 7A Boulder
The Basilisk AKA Cannons Sit Cannon Boulder
 4
V8+ 7B+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Box Canyon Boulders »

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