Elevation: 1,162 ft
GPS: 43.027, -90.104 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 347,699 total · 1,629/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jan 2, 2003
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

Description

Governor Dodge State Park has numerous rock features. Some are suitable for climbing, and some (perhaps most) are not. The overarching consideration for anyone climbing at Governor Dodge should be climbing only on formations that can hold up to the abuse. The rock here is Sandstone, and some of it is solid. Much of it, though, is fragile or crumbly and should be left alone. The rocks came before the climbers, so the rocks have the right to remain. Climbers aren't exactly adored by the DNR, so be overly considerate of the rock and other park users. The climbing history at Governor Dodge is not nearly as storied as it is at Devil's Lake, so we as climbers can take nothing for granted (not that you should at the Lake, either). There are some bolted routes at Governor Dodge. When the DNR found these it did not make them happy, so further bolting of routes is not acceptable. That said, enjoy!

See Qual Wall for the bolted routes, Deutschlander Wall for TR's and the remainder are bouldering areas.

Travis Melin FA on "It's Oral Over" V6 @ The Complex
The early crux.

John Dobbe on "Open Season" V4/5 @ Barrel Boulders
Big ups

Katie on Highly Executed, Group B east side of Backbone Ridge.
Katie. So strong.

Guidebooks: 

The Wisconsin Bouldering Guidebook, which features bouldering at Devil's Lake and Governor Dodge, published alongside the Minnesota Bouldering Guidebook, is currently available online from Escape and at retail locations throughout the Midwest.

https://escapeclimbing.com/collections/gear/products/ecxbo02 

Equipment:

If you show up in WI without pads, you can buy a pad at Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison or Wildside in Baraboo (call before going to make sure they have one in stock). You can also rent a pad from Focus Boardshop/Wisconsin Climbers Association on the east side of Madison. All three locations currently stock the Wisconsin Bouldering Guidebook.

Getting There

From Madison, take Hwy 18/151 to Dodgeville. Turn right (north) on Hwy 23 until you come to the entrance a few miles up the road. The park is on the east side of Hwy 23.

Please Note:

Current issues:

1. Climbing is not disallowed at the park, we are simply another user group. Please do not do anything to jeapordize our relations with the park.

2. If climbing near a campsite, do not park at that site if there are people camping there or hike through if they are at their site. Find another way to the rock. Most areas have alternate directions.

2a. Please note the new parking recommendations for the Qual Wall and Lonely Boulders noted on the Qual Wall page.

3. No fixed anchors may be installed, ie. no bolts.

4. Holds break at the Dodge but please don't climb if it's obviously wet!!!

358 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Governor Dodge State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0+ 4+
 83
Seperation Anxiety
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 93
High Anxiety
Boulder
V3 6A
 81
Another Daydream
Boulder
V4 6B
 119
Get the Hell Outta Dodge
Boulder
V4 6B
 71
Only the Lonely
Boulder
V4 6B
 125
The Godfather
Boulder
V4 6B
 77
Out Past Curfew
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 123
Hangman
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 51
Nameless
Boulder
V5 6C
 68
Split Personality
Boulder
V5 6C
 78
Grounded For Life
Boulder
V7 7A+
 39
Highly Executed
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 85
Leftwing
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 62
Sobriety Test
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 95
A Red Recollection
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Seperation Anxiety Group Camp B > Plan B Area
 83
V0+ 4+ Boulder
High Anxiety Group Camp B > Plan B Area
 93
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Another Daydream Lonely Boulders
 81
V3 6A Boulder
Get the Hell Outta Dodge Group Camp B > Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge
 119
V4 6B Boulder
Only the Lonely Lonely Boulders
 71
V4 6B Boulder
The Godfather Box Canyon Boul… > Godfather Boulder
 125
V4 6B Boulder
Out Past Curfew Boat Landing Boulders
 77
V4 6B Boulder
Hangman Group Camp B > Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge
 123
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Nameless Group Camp B > Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge
 51
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Split Personality Group Camp B > Plan B Area
 68
V5 6C Boulder
Grounded For Life Boat Landing Boulders
 78
V5 6C Boulder
Highly Executed Group Camp B > Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge
 39
V7 7A+ Boulder
Leftwing Qual Wall
 85
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sobriety Test Qual Wall
 62
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
A Red Recollection Qual Wall
 95
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Governor Dodge State Park »

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