Governor Dodge State Park Bouldering
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|Shared By:||chris tregge on Jan 2, 2003 · Updates|
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Governor Dodge State Park has numerous rock features. Some are suitable for climbing, and some (perhaps most) are not. The overarching consideration for anyone climbing at Governor Dodge should be climbing only on formations that can hold up to the abuse. The rock here is Sandstone, and some of it is solid. Much of it, though, is fragile or crumbly and should be left alone. The rocks came before the climbers, so the rocks have the right to remain. Climbers aren't exactly adored by the DNR, so be overly considerate of the rock and other park users. The climbing history at Governor Dodge is not nearly as storied as it is at Devil's Lake, so we as climbers can take nothing for granted (not that you should at the Lake, either). There are some bolted routes at Governor Dodge. When the DNR found these it did not make them happy, so further bolting of routes is not acceptable. That said, enjoy!
See Qual Wall for the bolted routes, Deutschlander Wall for TR's and the remainder are bouldering areas.
Travis Melin FA on "It's Oral Over" V6 @ The Complex
John Dobbe on "Open Season" V4/5 @ Barrel Boulders
Katie on Highly Executed, Group B east side of Backbone Ridge.
The Wisconsin Bouldering Guidebook, which features bouldering at Devil's Lake and Governor Dodge, published alongside the Minnesota Bouldering Guidebook currently (Sept 2021) appears to be out of print.
If you show up in WI without pads, you can buy a pad at Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison or Wildside in Baraboo (call before going to make sure they have one in stock). You can also rent a pad from Focus Boardshop/Wisconsin Climbers Association on the east side of Madison.
1. Climbing is not disallowed at the park, we are simply another user group. Please do not do anything to jeapordize our relations with the park.
2. If climbing near a campsite, do not park at that site if there are people camping there or hike through if they are at their site. Find another way to the rock. Most areas have alternate directions.
2a. Please note the new parking recommendations for the Qual Wall and Lonely Boulders noted on the Qual Wall page.
3. No fixed anchors may be installed, ie. no bolts.
4. Holds break at the Dodge but please don't climb if it's obviously wet!!!
Classic Climbing Routes at Governor Dodge State Park
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