Elevation: 1,253 ft
GPS: 43.019, -90.139 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 536,117 total · 2,245/month
Shared By: chris tregge on Jan 2, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

Description

Governor Dodge State Park has numerous rock features. Some are suitable for climbing, and some (perhaps most) are not. The overarching consideration for anyone climbing at Governor Dodge should be climbing only on formations that can hold up to the abuse. The rock here is Sandstone, and some of it is solid. Much of it, though, is fragile or crumbly and should be left alone. The rocks came before the climbers, so the rocks have the right to remain. Climbers aren't exactly adored by the DNR, so be overly considerate of the rock and other park users. The climbing history at Governor Dodge is not nearly as storied as it is at Devil's Lake, so we as climbers can take nothing for granted (not that you should at the Lake, either). There are some bolted routes at Governor Dodge. When the DNR found these it did not make them happy, so further bolting of routes is not acceptable. That said, enjoy!

See Qual Wall for the bolted routes, Deutschlander Wall for TR's and the remainder are bouldering areas.

Travis Melin FA on "It's Oral Over" V6 @ The Complex

The early crux.

John Dobbe on "Open Season" V4/5 @ Barrel Boulders

Big ups

Katie on Highly Executed, Group B east side of Backbone Ridge.

Katie. So strong.

Guidebook: 

The Wisconsin Bouldering Guidebook, which features bouldering at Devil's Lake and Governor Dodge, published alongside the Minnesota Bouldering Guidebook currently (Sept 2021) appears to be out of print.

Equipment:

If you show up in WI without pads, you can buy a pad at Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison or Wildside in Baraboo (call before going to make sure they have one in stock). You can also rent a pad from Focus Boardshop/Wisconsin Climbers Association on the east side of Madison.

Getting There

From Madison, take Hwy 18/151 to Dodgeville. Turn right (north) on Hwy 23 until you come to the entrance a few miles up the road. The park is on the east side of Hwy 23.

Please Note:

Current issues:

1. Climbing is not disallowed at the park, we are simply another user group. Please do not do anything to jeapordize our relations with the park.

2. If climbing near a campsite, do not park at that site if there are people camping there or hike through if they are at their site. Find another way to the rock. Most areas have alternate directions.

2a. Please note the new parking recommendations for the Qual Wall and Lonely Boulders noted on the Qual Wall page.

3. No fixed anchors may be installed, ie. no bolts.

4. Holds break at the Dodge but please don't climb if it's obviously wet!!!

371 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Governor Dodge State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0+ 4+
 95
Seperation Anxiety
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 103
High Anxiety
Boulder
V3 6A
 102
Another Daydream
Boulder
V4 6B
 75
Resolution
Boulder
V4 6B
 131
Get the Hell Outta Dodge
Boulder
V4 6B
 86
Only the Lonely
Boulder
V4 6B
 153
The Godfather
Boulder
V4 6B
 88
Out Past Curfew
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 60
Nameless
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 135
Hangman
Boulder
V5 6C
 75
Split Personality
Boulder
V5 6C
 91
Grounded For Life
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 106
Leftwing
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 77
Sobriety Test
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 113
A Red Recollection
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Seperation Anxiety Group Camps > … > Plan B Area > High Anxiety
 95
V0+ 4+ Boulder
High Anxiety Group Camps > … > Plan B Area > High Anxiety
 103
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Another Daydream Group Camps > 1. Lonely Boulders
 102
V3 6A Boulder
Resolution Group Camps > … > Plan B Area > High Anxiety
 75
V4 6B Boulder
Get the Hell Outta Dodge Group Camps > … > Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge
 131
V4 6B Boulder
Only the Lonely Group Camps > 1. Lonely Boulders
 86
V4 6B Boulder
The Godfather Cox Hollow > 1. Box Canyon B… > 3. Godfather Boulder
 153
V4 6B Boulder
Out Past Curfew Cox Hollow > 3. Boat Landing Boulders
 88
V4 6B Boulder
Nameless Group Camps > … > Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge
 60
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Hangman Group Camps > … > Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge
 135
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Split Personality Group Camps > … > Plan B Area > High Anxiety
 75
V5 6C Boulder
Grounded For Life Cox Hollow > 3. Boat Landing Boulders
 91
V5 6C Boulder
Leftwing Group Camps > 2. Qual Wall
 106
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sobriety Test Group Camps > 2. Qual Wall
 77
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
A Red Recollection Group Camps > 2. Qual Wall
 113
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Governor Dodge State Park »

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