Elevation: 1,253 ft
GPS: 43.019, -90.139 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 436,424 total · 1,945/month
Shared By: chris tregge on Jan 2, 2003
Admins: Ian CB, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Doug Hemken

Description

Governor Dodge State Park has numerous rock features. Some are suitable for climbing, and some (perhaps most) are not. The overarching consideration for anyone climbing at Governor Dodge should be climbing only on formations that can hold up to the abuse. The rock here is Sandstone, and some of it is solid. Much of it, though, is fragile or crumbly and should be left alone. The rocks came before the climbers, so the rocks have the right to remain. Climbers aren't exactly adored by the DNR, so be overly considerate of the rock and other park users. The climbing history at Governor Dodge is not nearly as storied as it is at Devil's Lake, so we as climbers can take nothing for granted (not that you should at the Lake, either). There are some bolted routes at Governor Dodge. When the DNR found these it did not make them happy, so further bolting of routes is not acceptable. That said, enjoy!

See Qual Wall for the bolted routes, Deutschlander Wall for TR's and the remainder are bouldering areas.

Travis Melin FA on "It's Oral Over" V6 @ The Complex
The early crux.

John Dobbe on "Open Season" V4/5 @ Barrel Boulders
Big ups

Katie on Highly Executed, Group B east side of Backbone Ridge.
Katie. So strong.

Guidebooks: 

The Wisconsin Bouldering Guidebook, which features bouldering at Devil's Lake and Governor Dodge, published alongside the Minnesota Bouldering Guidebook, is currently available online from Escape and at retail locations throughout the Midwest.

https://escapeclimbing.com/collections/gear/products/ecxbo02 

Equipment:

If you show up in WI without pads, you can buy a pad at Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison or Wildside in Baraboo (call before going to make sure they have one in stock). You can also rent a pad from Focus Boardshop/Wisconsin Climbers Association on the east side of Madison. All three locations currently stock the Wisconsin Bouldering Guidebook.

Getting There

From Madison, take Hwy 18/151 to Dodgeville. Turn right (north) on Hwy 23 until you come to the entrance a few miles up the road. The park is on the east side of Hwy 23.

Please Note:

Current issues:

1. Climbing is not disallowed at the park, we are simply another user group. Please do not do anything to jeapordize our relations with the park.

2. If climbing near a campsite, do not park at that site if there are people camping there or hike through if they are at their site. Find another way to the rock. Most areas have alternate directions.

2a. Please note the new parking recommendations for the Qual Wall and Lonely Boulders noted on the Qual Wall page.

3. No fixed anchors may be installed, ie. no bolts.

4. Holds break at the Dodge but please don't climb if it's obviously wet!!!

366 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Governor Dodge State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0+ 4+
 90
Seperation Anxiety
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 97
High Anxiety
Boulder
V3 6A
 92
Another Daydream
Boulder
V4 6B
 127
Get the Hell Outta Dodge
Boulder
V4 6B
 78
Only the Lonely
Boulder
V4 6B
 140
The Godfather
Boulder
V4 6B
 83
Out Past Curfew
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 55
Nameless
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 132
Hangman
Boulder
V5 6C
 72
Split Personality
Boulder
V5 6C
 86
Grounded For Life
Boulder
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 80
Slab Me Harder
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 96
Leftwing
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 68
Sobriety Test
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 106
A Red Recollection
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Seperation Anxiety Group Camps > 4. Group Camp B > Plan B Area
 90
V0+ 4+ Boulder
High Anxiety Group Camps > 4. Group Camp B > Plan B Area
 97
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Another Daydream Group Camps > 1. Lonely Boulders
 92
V3 6A Boulder
Get the Hell Outta Dodge Group Camps > … > Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge
 127
V4 6B Boulder
Only the Lonely Group Camps > 1. Lonely Boulders
 78
V4 6B Boulder
The Godfather Cox Hollow > 1. Box Canyon B… > 3. Godfather Boulder
 140
V4 6B Boulder
Out Past Curfew Cox Hollow > 3. Boat Landing Boulders
 83
V4 6B Boulder
Nameless Group Camps > … > Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge
 55
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Hangman Group Camps > … > Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge
 132
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Split Personality Group Camps > 4. Group Camp B > Plan B Area
 72
V5 6C Boulder
Grounded For Life Cox Hollow > 3. Boat Landing Boulders
 86
V5 6C Boulder
Slab Me Harder Group Camps > 2. Qual Wall
 80
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Leftwing Group Camps > 2. Qual Wall
 96
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sobriety Test Group Camps > 2. Qual Wall
 68
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
A Red Recollection Group Camps > 2. Qual Wall
 106
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Governor Dodge State Park »

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