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Elevation: 1,253 ft 382 m
GPS: 43.01911, -90.13865
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Shared By: chris tregge on Jan 2, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

Description Suggest change

Governor Dodge State Park has numerous rock features. Some are suitable for climbing, and some (perhaps most) are not. The overarching consideration for anyone climbing at Governor Dodge should be climbing only on formations that can hold up to the abuse. The rock here is Sandstone, and some of it is solid. Much of it, though, is fragile or crumbly and should be left alone. The rocks came before the climbers, so the rocks have the right to remain. Climbers aren't exactly adored by the DNR, so be overly considerate of the rock and other park users. The climbing history at Governor Dodge is not nearly as storied as it is at Devil's Lake, so we as climbers can take nothing for granted (not that you should at the Lake, either). There are some bolted routes at Governor Dodge. When the DNR found these it did not make them happy, so further bolting of routes is not acceptable. That said, enjoy!

See Qual Wall for the bolted routes, Deutschlander Wall for TR's and the remainder are bouldering areas.

Travis Melin FA on "It's Oral Over" V6 @ The Complex

John Dobbe on "Open Season" V4/5 @ Barrel Boulders

Katie on Highly Executed, Group B east side of Backbone Ridge.

Guidebook: 

The Wisconsin Bouldering Guidebook, which features bouldering at Devil's Lake and Governor Dodge, published alongside the Minnesota Bouldering Guidebook currently (Sept 2021) appears to be out of print.

Equipment:

If you show up in WI without pads, you can buy a pad at Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison or Wildside in Baraboo (call before going to make sure they have one in stock). You can also rent a pad from Focus Boardshop/Wisconsin Climbers Association on the east side of Madison.

Getting There Suggest change

From Madison, take Hwy 18/151 to Dodgeville. Turn right (north) on Hwy 23 until you come to the entrance a few miles up the road. The park is on the east side of Hwy 23.

Please Note:

Suggest change
Current issues:

1. Climbing is not disallowed at the park, we are simply another user group. Please do not do anything to jeapordize our relations with the park.

2. If climbing near a campsite, do not park at that site if there are people camping there or hike through if they are at their site. Find another way to the rock. Most areas have alternate directions.

2a. Please note the new parking recommendations for the Qual Wall and Lonely Boulders noted on the Qual Wall page.

3. No fixed anchors may be installed, ie. no bolts.

4. Holds break at the Dodge but please don't climb if it's obviously wet!!!

389 Total Climbs

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Location: Governor Dodge State Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Governor Dodge State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 52
Face Left of Wright's Arete
Boulder
V4 6B
 107
Only the Lonely
Boulder
V4 6B
 175
The Godfather
Boulder
V4 6B
 109
Out Past Curfew
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 155
Hangman
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 71
Nameless
Boulder
V5 6C
 24
Open Season
Boulder
V5 6C
 47
All in the Family
Boulder
V5 6C
 21
Venom
Boulder
V5 6C
 117
Grounded For Life
Boulder
V7 7A+
 46
Highly Executed
Boulder
V8 7B
 27
Sandstone Violence
Boulder
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 125
A Red Recollection
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 40
Unlisted Number
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 29
Secret Agent Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Face Left of Wright's Arete Group Camps > … > Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge
 52
V3 6A Boulder
Only the Lonely Group Camps > 1. Lonely Boulders
 107
V4 6B Boulder
The Godfather Cox Hollow > 1. Box Canyon B… > 3. Godfather Boulder
 175
V4 6B Boulder
Out Past Curfew Cox Hollow > 3. Boat Landing Boulders
 109
V4 6B Boulder
Hangman Group Camps > … > Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge
 155
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Nameless Group Camps > … > Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge
 71
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Open Season Twin Valley > Barrel Boulders
 24
V5 6C Boulder
All in the Family Cox Hollow > 1. Box Canyon B… > 3. Godfather Boulder
 47
V5 6C Boulder
Venom Group Camps > … > Plan B Area > High Anxiety
 21
V5 6C Boulder
Grounded For Life Cox Hollow > 3. Boat Landing Boulders
 117
V5 6C Boulder
Highly Executed Group Camps > … > Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge
 46
V7 7A+ Boulder
Sandstone Violence Group Camps > … > Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge
 27
V8 7B Boulder
A Red Recollection Group Camps > 2. Qual Wall
 125
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Unlisted Number Group Camps > 2. Qual Wall
 40
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Secret Agent Man Group Camps > 2. Qual Wall
 29
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Governor Dodge State Park »

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